Travel in Australia

Stephen and I got to spend our honeymoon traveling around Australia and absolutely loved it.  I would highly recommend going down under.  Below, a few stops and restaurants that were particular standouts....

Hayman Island - Australia Island-Beach Style

We headed up north to the edge of the great barrier reef to decompress for a while, before doing more active exploring.  This all-inclusive resort was fantastic.  A yacht comes to pick you up at the airport and take you on a scenic ride to the private Hayman Island.  There are several excellent restaurants serving a range of asian and australian influenced seafood dishes.  I really enjoyed dozing next to their lovely saltwater pools and roaming around the hilly island trails.

Sydney

I love Sydney.  I would move there if I could.  It's just got such a great ambiance - urban downtown, quaint victorian town homes, warm weather and great food.  We ate like kings!  At Rockpool, we had amazing seafood served in a sleek and modern dining room.  We got to eat one of the largest and longest sushi meals I've ever had at Tetsuya's, perhaps the best restaurant in Australia.  At Universal, we sampled cuisine inspired by the global population of Australia.  Finally, at Icebergs, we ate fantastic Italian food with a jaw-dropping view of Bondi Beach and the Pacific Ocean.  Besides eating, I highly recommend wandering through the Royal Botanical Gardens, heading to Paddington for shopping, taking a tour of the Opera House, and getting out of the city to see some native wildlife at the Featherdale Wildlife Park and the Blue Mountains.

Tasmania

That's right, we visited Tasmania.  Interestingly enough, we were drawn to this remote state because of its wine!  Stephen and I are pretty nutty when it comes to wine and every vacation we've taken recently has had at least one day devoted to wine tasting.  Tasmania intrigued us because of its cooler climate varietals - pinot noirs and sparkling wines (we're not big Barossa Shiraz fans).  Incidentally, I have to say, the wine we had all over Australia was very diverse and downright tasty.  It seems that much of it stays in the country and does not make it to the USA...  such a shame.  In Tasmania, we tasted wine from the Tamar River Valley in the north, around the little town of Launceston.  We really enjoyed Pipers Brook wines as well as Goaty Hill and Velo.  Alas, we can't get them in the states!  We also had a fantastic meal at a restaurant called Fee & Me, which has unfortunately since closed.  Tasmania is kind of the breadbasket of Australia and it is known for its lamb.  I had amazing lamb chops there...  While there we checked out Cataract Gorge, before heading down to Russell Falls and Hobart.  Hobart is a very pretty, older city.  We stayed at the amazing Henry Jones Art Hotel and ate a lovely meal at Marque IV.  I do have to say, that if you don't have a lot of time and want to check out Tasmania, head to Hobart and do wine tasting around the Coal River Valley.

Wink ☆☆☆☆

Wink

1014 North Lamar, Ste. E

Austin, TX 78703

Open Monday-Wed 6:00-10:00; Thurs-Saturday 5:30-11:00

Wink is a fine dining restaurant located on Lamar Blvd, on the edge of old west Austin. It is slightly difficult to find as it is in a strip-mallish building secreted behind the Whole Earth Provisions store that fronts on Lamar. Long a favorite of the foodie scene in Austin, it was one of the first high-end, locally and seasonally focused restaurants in the capitol city. Despite many newcomers over the years, Wink has managed to maintain its status as a go to for excellent food and quality service. I have enjoyed many meals there over the years and find the food to be carefully executed and tasty, however, I've never had a dish there that has made me sit back in wonder. It's that lack of awe that pushes me towards a four star as opposed to a five star review. But before I digress to much on that point, let's cover some details!

As mentioned, Wink is located in a small space that is tucked back in a little corner of a shopping center. The dining room is very simple - white table clothes, woven leather and wooden chairs, walls of mirrors and flattering dim lighting. The reception/hostess area is separated by a waist level wall and strings of black-grey circular panels that have eyes "winking" at you. Overall, it is a very calm space with cream/tan undertones. The message you get is that this place is about the food, plain and simple, and aside from a few little conceits, the owners were not going for any gimmicky additions or overly distracting add ons.

Wink is famous for its tasting menus which, like the a la carte menu, are subject to change on a daily basis. They offer both a five course and a seven course option. They scale the course sizes so that a diner who orders a la cart versus a diner who orders the seven course option will generally end up with the same amount of food. Oh, and if you elect to do the tasting menu, the whole table is on for the ride. The diners can also choose to add on wine pairings for either of the tasting menus. Generally, I find the pairings to be a very good value since you will often be eating quite a varied list of dishes.

The wines overall are probably the best deal the restaurant offers. They are constantly changing or updating their well-edited list which usually contains 50-70 names. They break down the list by wine region or varietal, which is helpful. The list has a decent broad sampling of the wine world at large. The wines are not extravagantly priced either. At a recent meal, I noticed that most of the bottles come in under $100. Also, they offer a huge selection of wines by the glass, which is probably a result of their sister wine bar. The Wink Wine Bar, by the by, is my favored way of sampling the Wink experience. They offer wines in tastes, half glasses or full glasses so you can build a tasting flight if you desire or simply sample a favorite glass of vino. Also, the wine bar has a different menu with items like mini brie burgers and chicken liver pate. Finally, the wine bar has happy hour specials, which result decent sized crowds during the cocktail hour.

The food is always elegantly prepared, with a high level of attention to detail. The waitstaff is well versed in the menu, even as it changes, and are able to offer pragmatic explanations of the ingredients and the virtues of a particular dish. The food, as mentioned, is as locally sourced as possible. I always enjoy their simple salads to begin with - they are usually some form of local greens with a light vinaigrette, and if you're lucky, Pure Luck goat cheese. I can also say that Wink is the only place at which I've eaten and enjoyed sweet breads. They were lightly pan-fried crisp and creamy on the inside. Generally, anything pan-seared is amazing. As a proponent of the slow food movement, they also have amazing braises and stews. Finally, I tend to skip dessert in favor of their cheese selection, which is excellent and features local faves as much as possible. Overall, the dining experience is one of relaxed elegance, but as I mentioned above, none of the dishes wow me with pizazz (save maybe the sweet breads). As such, I think Wink is a lovely destination for an upscale evening out. Enjoy ☆☆☆☆

Perla's ☆☆☆

Perla’s

1400 South Congress Ave, Austin TX 78704

512-291-7300

Open, in some format, 11:00 AM to close 7 days a week (including Sunday & Saturday Brunch)

Perla’s Seafood and Oyster Bar opened to much anticipation in the spring of 2009 promising gulf-inspired seafood dishes and specialty cocktails. The brainchild of the owners and chef behind Lambert’s (a very popular Austin BBQ restaurant), the new restaurant seemed perfectly poised for its trendy SoCo location. Since opening, Perla’s has become a sought after dining destination both in the landscape of Austin and on the national scene (it was named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants this summer). The Chef, Lawrence McGuire, has transferred his love of grilling and piquant spices he acquired at Lambert’s successfully to the cuisine he offers at Perla’s.

Perla's is a light and airy environs; it is downright reminiscent of the beach! One of the space’s defining features is its large outdoor patio area which is generously shaded by several live oak trees. The spot is very popular with the happy hour crowd and with diners late into the evening as well. The interior is all white and blue and yellow. The first thing you encounter is a very large saltwater fish tank - appropriately setting the sea focus of the dining experience. There is a large bar and cocktail area to the left, and general seating and banquettes to the right. Everything is jauntily done up in seaside colors and whitewashes. It is quite cheerful really.

McGuire and Co. have succeeded in producing a menu that references the gulf coast but also combines elements of central Texas - namely mesquite grilling and smoking and Mexican touches. You’re greeted by hush puppies - which are fantastic - upon ordering. Well, ideally you should be served these immediately, however in my experience you often have to request them multiple times (the waitstaff can be a bit daft). There is a substantial offering of raw bar options (oysters, shrimp cocktail, ceviche), which are great as apps or as happy hour snacks. The appetizers, soups and salads are all creative and generally well -edited. I particularly enjoy the gazpacho in the summer (I’ve ordered it every time) and the shrimp bisque in the winter (very warming and soothing). I also like the hefeweizen mussels and the new wood-grilled oysters (these are a riff off of a popular New Orleans appetizer) which are topped with breadcrumbs, garlic, other spices and butter. Some of the apps can be a little much. I definitely disliked their BBQ shrimp when I had it - the shrimp were undercooked and the sauce was more a greasy mess than anything else. Could have been a one time thing, but it was yucky enough that I haven’t even considered giving it a second chance.

The rest of the menu is devoted to Po-Boys, simple wood-grilled fish, and entrée selections. The Po-Boys are huge and, according to my Husband, fantastic. You can request a combination shrimp and oyster. The sandwich is dressed with a decently spicy mayo which gives the whole combination a nice piquant edge. You will also receive a mountain of shoe-string fries. The simple wood-grilled fish options perhaps too perfectly encapsulate the term "simple". I’ve ordered grilled bass with a lemon-herb sauce and found the whole affair to be reminiscent of a mother’s weeknight cooking - well done, but un-imaginative. Mothers generally have the excuse that they are managing boisterous children and various other activities, I’m not sure what Perla’s is.... The entrées are much more imaginative, with excellent veggie pairings and sauces. However, when I’ve ordered from this side of the menu, I’ve often been disappointed by the dryness of the fish. It looks really pretty, I just wish the taste lived up to the image some times. I will say this about Perla’s, I never leave hungry. In my upwards of 10 dining experiences I have never once had the desserts! This is a failing I hope to correct some time soon, but generally, I’m just too full by the end of my meal to handle any sweet concoctions.

The drinks at Perla’s are one of their fortés. They have followed the artisanal bandwagon when it comes to their mixed drinks and they excel in their execution. They offer both signature and classic options - I’ve found the Pelican to be quite tasty (coconut puree, aged rum, palm sugar, and mango nectar). Their wine list is also well designed. It actually offers a pretty good value - there isn’t a single bottle over $100. Many of the wines are by the glass as well. The list is predominantly sourced from Cali producers, however there are some interesting additions from locales such as Greece and Argentina.

Overall, Perla's is a relaxed dining experience that provides diners with interesting and diverse seafood options. It is not, however, a bargain dining experience. The appetizers are not overly expensive, however, the entrées mainly are priced in the 20 to 30 dollar range. Another con, which I've already hinted at, is the waitstaff. While generally knowledgeable, they are not very attentive. I've definitely felt a bit abandoned - on a recent dining experience, my party actually managed to finish off a bottle of wine before even being able to place our food order - and not for lack of trying to flag our waiter.

If you're in the SoCo area and looking for a reasonably light and well done seafood option, I would definitely suggest checking out Perla's. Additionally, it is an excellent choice for happy hour, especially on pleasant evenings when you can sit outside on the patio and enjoy the hustle and the bustle of the neighborhood. Overall, ☆☆☆.

Thai Fresh ☆☆☆

Thai Fresh

909 West Mary Street Unit B Austin TX 78704

512-494-6436

Open Daily 11AM-9PM

Thai Fresh opened in the summer of 2008 in a small shopping center at the corner of Mary and south 5th St. It is an unassuming location that belies the excellent food within. Thai Fresh produces high quality Thai food based on locally sourced ingredients and Jam Sanichat’s culinary education stemming from her upbringing in Thailand.

I actually first encountered Jam in a cooking class at Central Market a couple of years ago. The topic of the class was Thai home cooking. Jam had a great personality and was an adept teacher - my sisters and I were hooked on the recipes she provided. It was a great surprise to discover that Jam was not only opening a store, but that the store was within walking distance from my house!

Thai Fresh is actually a combination restaurant/grocery store/cooking school. The interior of the space's main feature is a large deli case containing the dishes on offer for the day (the menu constantly changes and is based on seasonally available ingredients). The open kitchen is directly behind the deli case and it is there that you will usually find Jam rolling spring rolls or tending to a simmering curry. The rest of the space contains some tables and a wall of shelves containing Thai ingredients as well as a cold case of drinks, etc. The food in the deli case can be packaged to go or the staff will heat your selection for you to eat right in the store. The whole atmosphere is of casual, almost rustic chic. Lovely.

Jam always prepares a wide range of Thai specialties every day. The selection always seems to include at least a curry, a soup, several vegetarian options and meat dishes (as well as Thai dessert specialties). I really love her curries (which include whichever veggies are freshest that week), her spring rolls, her tom ka gai, and her pad thai (which is of a much lighter variety than you normally encounter). I always look forward to trundling over to the store for some spicy, warming, balanced dishes. Pretty much, you can’t go wrong. ☆☆☆

Australian Wines - Cheat Sheet

Lessons Learned or the Top 10 Things to Know about Aussie Wines (to sound like a wine geek!):

1. Australia has been producing wine since the 1800‘s, when the emphasis was more on fortified wines; however, the modern wine industry as we know it really took root in the 1970's. Despite its reputation for Shiraz, wine production in OZ is now dominated by what's known as the big three - Chardonnay, Cabernet and Shiraz.

2. In general, Aussie winemakers are focused on emphasizing the simple fruit flavor of the grapes as opposed to creating structurally complex styles. They have intense, fruity whites and soft, chocolaty, mouth-filling reds.

3. Aussie Shiraz is one of the world’s preeminent "value" wines, a reputation it is trying to shake as such a moniker is often synonymous with bland wines to be avoided. This reputation stems from wines hailing from, not surprisingly, the most productive wine regions in Australia which are known as Riverland or Riverina (sometimes just labeled as South East Australia). These areas are heavily irrigated to produce large yields and lackluster grapes. One of the secrets of great wine making is that in order to produce excellent fruit you need to stress the grapevines by depriving them of water and forcing them to find their way in rocky, inhospitable soils. These practices, along with selective pruning (bush pruning in Australian parlance), produce complex wines. Unless you are after an inexpensive, relatively palatable Tuesday night wine, you should avoid irrigated wines - dryland farming is the key!

4. Despite its reputation for producing massive amounts of low quality Shiraz, the Australian wine industry is much more complex. For one thing, practitioners are constantly focused on improving the science and technology of wine making. A center for wine education is the Adelaide Australian Wine Research Institute. Additionally, in an attempt to improve the quality of their wines, many Aussie wine makers have a high penchant for traveling overseas to get the best training. As a result there are many exciting wines being made down under from a wide variety of varietals; they are often just not brought to our American attention.

5. Additionally, it is important to note that not all wine in Australia is produced in the Barossa Valley. Indeed, there is production in all states. Most of the best wine-producing areas are essentially in the south and the west, however, Hunter Valley is a standout in the mid-north east near Sydney. The states to concentrate on are Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Tasmania. The particular regions of excellence in each of those states is discussed in more depth below.

6. New South Wales - This is the northernmost, and hence the hottest and wettest, state to focus on. The main region is Hunter Valley, which is the home of Rosemount Estate. While Hunter Valley initially gained a reputation for Shiraz, it is really its Semillon that has attained a high level of excellence, while the reds churned out are of a low quality. The Semillons are generally produced un-oaked and yet still are able to age 10 to 20 years out exhibiting honeyed, buttery and nutty flavors. These wines are very hard to find outside of Oz.

7. South Australia - Home of the Barossa Valley, possibly the most well known Aussie wine region. Most of the largest wineries are based there (such as Penfolds). The wineries have chosen to focus on dry farming and bush pruning and hence produce often fabulous, inky, dark wines. Australia’s most famous wine, Grange, is produced here. This is definite Shiraz country. Other wine areas in S.A. have also come to preeminence. The McLaren Vale produces excellent wines from smaller vineyards. While Shiraz is still key, the area actually produces excellent Rhone-style Grenache and GSM blends (Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre). It also produces a ton of white wine whose characteristics are dominated by the ocean. Think melony and citrus chardonnay. The last area of note is Coonawarra which is in the limestone coast. This cooler area produces excellent Cabernets.

8. Tasmania - The land down under down under is Pinot Noir country with its cool climate and moister conditions. Areas of note are Tamar River, Pipers Brook and Coal River. The majority of the Pinot Noir goes into making excellent, dry sparking wines in the champagne style. However, excellent, burgundy style reds are produced as well. This area is still taking off and it is often very difficult to find the wines outside of Aussie. Keep it on your radar though.

9. Victoria - One of the oldest wine producing regions in Australia, Victoria wineries were historically focused on Tokay or dessert wines. Actually, Australian Tokay, by way of coincidence, was matured in conditions similar to those used to produce Madeira; hence their excellence. Today, the range of wine produced is much broader. Yarra Valley is probably the most well known name in the area - it is often compared to Napa with its close proximity to Melbourne (much like San Francisco). The climate is actually cooler (even than Bordeaux) due to altitude and maritime influences. As a result, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, rather than Shiraz are the dominant varieties in the area. There is one new star on the horizon - Shiraz-Viognier. Keep an eye out for it. Finally, another important region is Heathcote. Heathcote is often not known outside of OZ, however, it produces amazing Shiraz which are deeply colored, rich and nuanced.

10. Western Australia - While you will still see mention of the Swan Valley, the big area is Margaret River. This is Cabernet country - think elegance with strength, redcurrant fruit with a seasoning of gravelly terroir. Additionally, the area produces intriguingly grassy Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as some excellent Chardonnay.

Olivia ☆☆☆

Olivia

2043 South Lamar, Austin TX 78704

512-804-2700

Open Mon-Sun 5:30-10ish; Sunday Brunch 10:30-2:30; reservations available

Olivia opened to much fanfare in 2008 as a promising new addition to the fine food/locavore movement in Austin. Located in SoLa, it attracted a lot of attention, both locally and nationally almost immediately as the new foodie destination. I have been going to Olivia almost since the day it opened. During that time I have had some absolutely sublime meals there; however, I have also had some less than stellar experiences. Over time, I have learned how to navigate the menu to increase my chances of having a great dining experience. But unless you know what you're doing, to a certain extent, you risk having just an ok meal. And really, that is my main complaint with an otherwise well executed restaurant concept - I feel nervous recommending Olivia to new diners because I'm not certain they'll be as adept at ensuring that they will have a great meal as I am. In any case, let's get down to the details...

Olivia has a light and airy environment - the structure was designed by one of my favorite architects in town, Michael Hsu. He is also responsible for the design concepts behind Uchi, Fino, Bess, La Condesa, etc. His aesthetic for Olivia was modern elegance with a touch of quirk. The outside is dominated by a huge slanted roof. It provides a sense of shelter and calm. There is a well designed outdoor seating area with a carefully cultivated xeriscapic-looking garden. Upon entering you encounter a demarcated bar area with cocktail tables and the hostess stand. Beyond the bar is the main dining room under a vaulted ceiling. As with many of Hsu's interiors, there is a wall that is papered with a quirky print. This offsets the warm wood tones of the rest of the space. There are a few enclosed banquettes, but most of the seating is of the standard four-top variety.

Generally, I've had pretty great service. They are well versed in the constantly changing, seasonally and locally focused menu. Additionally, the waiters are decently knowledgeable about wine and the sommelier (the initial sommelier behind Vino Vino) is extremely helpful. The wine list is one of my favorite in town (I confess, I go there simply to delight in the wine by the glass offerings sometimes). Along with listing the locale and varietal of a wine, a tiny description of the taste/aroma is provided as well. It is a much more helpful attention to detail than one might think - a truly delightful cabernet franc from de la chanteleuserie is described as "racyjuicyspicy!" Beyond the great descriptions, the wines are excellently sourced. The focus tends to be more on Europe with a strong nod to France and Italy; however, they venture further afield as well. I recently tried this extremely intense wine from Slovenia - Movia's Ribolla - which I had read about in Food and Wine earlier in the year. I had thought I would have to scour NYC to sample it, but there it was in little Austin!

Olivia has many pros. As I mentioned above, I've developed a system for ordering that has allowed me to have great experiences. Generally, they have amazing soups and salads (I tried to eat this peach gazpacho they had this summer like once a week). Additionally, they are whizzes with grits - they get them stone ground and they smother them in smoked Gouda mostly. They are heavenly at dinner or at brunch. Their cheese plate is always a good option as well - it features more obscure American producers and little condiments. Moving into entrées, anything slow cooked - braise or stew - is uniformly amazing. I had a lamb shank the other day that was revelatory. It had the usual suspects - tomatoes, wine garlic - but then they added cilantro and pickled onions. Talk about a flavor pop! Olivia also excels at their pasta dishes (usually involving home made pasta) and their desserts. The duck egg crème brûleé is delectable. Finally, I love their brunch. I enjoy their small omelettes, their mimosa trio and their homemade sausage.

While Olivia is endowed with many pluses, it also has some strong cons. It is extremely expensive. I was with a party of 6 the other night and we ordered two cheese plates and a charcuterie plate. I did the math and realized that, before ordering any entrees or desserts, we had managed to ring up a bill for $60! $18 for a cheese plate, no matter how well-sourced, is a little steep. Not to mention that the portions are less than generous. I mentioned earlier that they have great soups and salads. What they don't have is a well-thought out appetizer section. Often I go in and it is an extreme ode to offal and raw protein. I like paté and oysters as much as the next gal, but when your apps are as follows - lamb's tongue, lamb's heart, raw beef carpaccio, paté, and raw oysters - you might have a problem enticing diners, not even finicky ones, to order. I applaud the adventuresome spirit, but maybe a little moderation would be in order? When it comes to the entrées, I have a few hints. If you order the duck, order it well done. They like to serve it raw. I've dined with multiple folks who have felt the need to send their duck back because, despite ordering it medium, it arrived barely cooked beyond a sear on the exterior. Trust me on this. This rule also extends to most of their roasted/grilled items. Unlike the stewed/braised category, Olivia tends to fall down on this front. I generally avoid them. Another surprising item I avoid is their risotto. While they excel at pasta, they tend to produce extremely heavy/fatty risottos. After three bites you feel full. Good for extremely cold evenings after you've run 10 miles, but not much else. My last point on entrées involves over-salting. I haven't found this to be the case, but many of my friends and family who dine at Olivia regularly find that the chefs' have an extreme love of salt and a penchant for over-expressing that love through copious additions of it to all foods. Finally, brunch. As I mentioned above, I like their brunch, but I have friends who have found the portions to be tiny and the prices steep. Again, if you're looking for a well-priced dining experience, Olivia is not really the spot.

Overall, Olivia hits high marks with its attention to seasonal and locally produced fare, its excellent European-focused wine list, and its creative approach to traditional dishes. It's strengths also tend to be its weaknesses. It's adventuresome spirit sometimes is a bit unbridled with the extreme love of offal. It's focus on obtaining high quality, locally produced ingredients drives, to some extent, the high-priced dishes. And finally, with the selection their wine list offers, you will be hard pressed to find a wine by the glass for less than $10. Additionally, they have a few quirks in the kitchen, as mentioned above.

If you know what you're doing when you're ordering, however, you will probably have an excellent meal that is both creative and inspiring as well as down-right tasty. Just be careful. ☆☆☆

East Side Pies

East Side Pies - initial impressions

1401 Rosewood Avenue
Austin, TX 78702
512-524-0933

This weekend I stopped by East Side Pies to take some pizzas over to a party. I'd sampled their pizzas before at a friend's home, but I had never actually been over to the restaurant. It's tiny! Situated on a corner lot, it is close to the newly revitalized E. 11th St area, home of Blue Dahlia Bistro and Primizie Osteria. East Side has a nice, partially covered outdoor seating area, however, from what I was able to see, there is no seating indoors. Actually, there is not much space for the customer indoors at all. When I went inside I got the faint feeling I was invading a private space - the kitchen so totally dominates the room, it hardly leaves room for much else. There is only a small spot left for a glass case containing pizzas by the slice and a cash register stashed directly behind. The rest of the room contains walls of ovens and prep stations for the staff. But don't worry, you don't have to only order inside, you can also order from the outside at a window on the side.

East Side specializes in extremely thin crust pies. They offer a wealth of unusual specialty options with names ranging from the Nacho to Buscemi. The ingredients are as varied as well. I sampled the Olivia - pesto base, artichoke, eggplant, roasted garlic, feta cheese and olives, the Marge - tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil, and the Chicago - sausage, sauteed bell peppers and onions, as well as plain cheese and pepperoni. The pepperonis are huge by the by! Overall, everyone at the party enjoyed the selection. I definitely enjoyed the Olivia, however, the crust for all of the pies was a little stiff for my tastes - I like it when my crust has a nice chewy edge to it. But really, I'm quibbling over a small point here.

The staff was super friendly and helpful - they carried all of the pies out to my car for me. Besides pizza, they also offer a range of garlic knots and a few salads. Overall, I think East Side is a great addition to the Austin dining scene and I plan on going back there when I'm in the area and get the chance.