Napa/Sonoma Trip - Days Three and Four

On Day 3, we were joined by our friends Jessica and Mark and spent the day visiting wineries. On our last day, we headed down to San Francisco first thing in the morning. We again met up with Jessica and Mark to see their lovely, new, larger apartment and to get some tasty dim sum, before flying back to Austin.

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Oakville Grocery

124 Matheson Street

Healdsburg, CA 95448-4118

(707) 433-3200

We decided to have a picnic lunch at one of the wineries. We stopped by Oakville Grocery’s Healdsburg outpost (the original is in Napa Valley) which was located conveniently one block from our hotel. They have a fantastic selection of foodstuffs ranging from fresh fruit, meats, cheese and olives to sandwiches and pizzas. The store is super cute as well.

Peay Vineyards

We made our first stop at Peay Vineyards. Stephen and I had our first Peay wine at Trio, in Austin, and were hooked. They produce lovely, European influenced pinots and cold-climate syrahs. They are actually located at the northernmost reaches of Sonoma in Cloverdale. To celebrate their spring release, they had a lovely party with all of the current wines, as well as cheese and salumi selections and fantastic grilled sausage sandwiches. The party was held in their winery which is situated in the middle of down town Cloverdale. It was a great experience as we to try old release wines and all of the new ones that weren’t sold out. Yummy.

We spent the rest of the afternoon roaming through the Russian River Valley. We had our picnic lunch at Rochioli Winery. It is a pretty vineyard with a great picnic area. They were very sweet and we enjoyed one of their current sauvignon blancs with our lunch. From there we headed on to Arista. A Texan family is behind this recent addition and they’ve started making some pretty good pinots. A winery to keep on your radar. Next we ventured to Gary Farrell. Stephen and I first went to Gary Farrell 5 years ago with Stephen’s friend Reid. It was our first wine tasting ever, and this pretty winery holds a special place in my heart. We acquired some of their library merlots and enjoyed the view. Our second to last stop was at Moshin Vineyards. They were hilarious. They have pretty decent wines and the tasting room and staff are highly amusing. While we sipped the wines against a musical backdrop of Lady Gaga, we listened to stories regarding the making of the wines. They had great one liners like “when you opt to do native yeast fermentation, don’t fill up the barrels completely, they overflow….” Finally, we went to J Vineyards to finish up with some sparkling wine. We tried vintage and late-disgorgement wines which were intriguing. The staff was not great. They were the least informed we’d ever met. Not the best experience, but tasty wines.

Dry Creek Kitchen

317 Healdsburg Avenue

Healdsburg, CA 95448-4105

(707) 922-5399

For our last night in the wine country, we revisited Charlie Palmer’s restaurant, conveniently located in the bottom of our stylish hotel. Of all the meals we had, this one was the most approachable. You weren’t wondering as to the ingredient combination or puzzled by a foam. Now I happen to adore adventuresome chefs, so approachable isn’t necessarily what I look for, but I know some folks do. If you want great food you understand, this is the place for you.

We started with the Sonoma Greens Salad which I expected to be composed of delicate spring leaves, but we got some pretty hearty romaine wedges instead. The dressing was nice, and I enjoyed crunching my way through. I then had the Coriander Crusted Duck with Caramelized Onions, Celeriac Mousseline and Confit. I ordered medium and it came out medium! The chefs out here don’t seem to be suffering from the under-doneness I’ve found elsewhere. I also ordered a side of the Ragout of Mushrooms, which was large and had tasty trumpets in it (my fave). Stephen had the Poached Guinea Hen with Peas and Ham. He also ordered a side of veggies which contained lovely summer squash and thinly sliced fennel. For dessert we split the ice cream/sorbet. It came in a triangle presentation of nine flavors. I loved the pistachio, the mint and the espresso-Baileys. Oh the strawberry rhubarb was superb. The chocolate and chili was a little heated for me, but overall, quite tasty!

For wine, we had a pinot off of their extremely Sonoma–focused wine list. You would be hard pressed to find a wine not from this specific area. We ended up trying out a 2007 Kosta Browne (K vineyard). It was a little unapproachable at first, but it opened up nicely with rich earthy undertones, and delicate red fruit on the palate.

Dry Creek Kitchen occupies a beautiful space. It has huge glass windows with large open areas under vaulted ceilings. Each of the tables is covered with a white table cloth, pots of ivy adorn the tops and the warm glow of firelight is cast about the place. The ambience supports the new American cuisine to perfection. This is a lovely restaurant.

Yank Sing

49 Stevenson Street

San Francisco, CA 94105

(415) 541-4949

I try to get dim sum every time I head to San Francisco. I always go to Yank Sing, which has multiple locations around down town. This location is tucked away on a side street, and it gets pretty crowded fast on the weekends. We always order a pot of jasmine tea and order what we fancy from the carts that are pushed around the dining room. One of their specialties is the Shanghai Dumpling or “soup” dumpling – a broth is carefully encased in a delicate wonton – and it is quite tasty. I also always order their pork baos and the egg custards. It’s a great place to gorge on lovely Chinese dumplings!

Napa/Sonoma Trip - Day Two

On Day 2 of the trip, we went to two of our favorite wineries.  We are on their mailing/distribution lists, and love their wines.  Unfortunately, if you’re not on their list, you can’t visit.  I would highly recommend checking out these wines though, if you have a chance at a restaurant, etc.  They are wonderful.    

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Paul Hobbs Winery

We actually had purchased a tasting at Paul Hobbs during a charity auction and dinner for HeartGift, a local Austin charity.  (We ended up getting on the list later.) Paul Hobbs makes glorious, lovely, elegant wines.  The winery is secluded and very hard to find but it is beautifully designed - we sat at a wonderful dining table in front of this very modern fire place that was done in cool whites with black accents.   We spent our morning with the events coordinator, who was extremely helpful and informative.  We were able to taste some pinots, which we were really excited about, as we’ve only had the cabs before.  We also tasted the 2005 Stagecoach cabernet sauvignon, a malbec, and two chardonnays.  Altogether a fantastic experience!

Fantesca Estate & Winery

Our afternoon tasting was at Fantesca.  This was another hard to find winery, but it was worth the journey.  We got to taste a range of their 2008 wines - the chard and the pinot.  We also were able to sample some fantastic cabernet.  This winery was recently purchased and so they seem to be still discovering themselves.  The pedigree of the vines and the winemakers (Heidi Barrett) they have on board are impressive.  This is going to be a crazy wine.  In addition the place has beautiful views, a crazy cave that is an old silver mine and great staff.  It was a good visit.  

Castello di Amorosa

This was my least favorite wine place by far.  It’s really a quintessential tourist trap.  Our driver thought it was the bees knees and we had always been curious about the massive medieval structure nestled in the hills.  So we checked it out.  All of the wine, while priced in the $20+ range, was disgusting.  They all had residual sugar and were super frou frou.  The castle was pretty intense though a tad goofy.  The actual structure, in terms of building materials and breadth was impressive (it does look like it came straight from 1300’s Italy).  Tons of kids were running around taking it all in.  All together a kitschy experience.  If you’re tired of tasting wine, check it out.  Otherwise, don’t go.     

Cyrus

29 North St
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(707) 433-3311

Amazing. I mean really, just amazing. Cyrus is located in the Sonoma town of Healdsburg.  It specializes in new American cuisine (read fusion flavors, locale ingredients, French preparation and techniques).  We had an absolutely wonderful dinner there.  

The dining room is a bit old-fashioned and is all creamy walls, mahogany wood and crisp white table cloths.  It was a comfy setting for the meal.  Immediately upon seating, we were offered 5 canapés in a tower representing various flavors – salty, sweet, sour, bitter and umami.  These ranged from spring rolls to glazed strawberries and all were delicately prepared.  It certainly set the tone for this dining adventure.  We then moved on to the caviar and champagne service.  They wheel this large cart around which contains all of their caviars on off on ice as well as an old-fashioned scale to weigh out your ounce or half-ounce.  It’s an impressive presentation and a fun way to start off the meal, especially since the accompaniments are re-imagined (the crème fraiche was frozen with liquid nitrogen and frozen and the eggs were somehow turned into yolk puddings – bizarre but tasty).  After the caviar, we selected the 5 course tasting menu (they offer 8 as well).  They have vegetarian menus as well.  They were very easy going about subbing in vegetarian options.  Stephen and I selected slightly different courses, and so we got to sample many dishes.  While we were waiting for our first dish we were treated to their bread select which is vast and baked every 20 minutes (seriously) as well as an amuse bouche of smoked salmon (to give the chef time to prepare).  Delish!

The wine list at Cyrus is very extensive.  While we were tempted by some bottles, we opted to just have the sommelier pair wines with each of our courses since were having so many different dishes.  I’m glad we did.  We had amazing wines that were unusual and well-matched.  I think my two favorites were a gruner veltliner and a madeiro,  though we had a lovely American nebbiolo and a pear cider as well.  Tough choices! We had never had any of the wines before, and we ended up tasting 9.  I love their sommelier!  

When we finally got to out meal we had everything from Artichokes a La Barigoule with Sauce Skordalia, Sea Bream with Galangal Rice Noodles and Banana Blossoms, to a Lamb Loin Roulad with Green Garlic Risotto and Fava Ben Ragout.  Everything was meticulously prepared and the flavors melded harmoniously.  As if this wasn’t enough food, we also had a cheese course and a dessert course.  Upon sitting down at our table, I had noticed this amazing cheese cart.  I had to have some.  Stephen and I each selected three cheeses with the help of the cheese “sommelier”.  They were all lovely. Finally we moved on to the dessert course.  I had a deconstructed Tira Misu and Stephen had the Chocolate and Peanut Butter Tart with Caramelized Banana Ice Cream.  Heaven.  As if this wasn’t enough, the candy cart was brought around.  As a parting gift, we were each given a box containing a brownie and were told to choose from their homemade lollipops, caramels, chocolates, nougats and cookies.  It was almost too much!  (They were all tasty treats later).  

Overall, Cyrus was one of my top five dining experiences.  The service was impeccable, the food beyond well prepared, and the wine interesting and varied.  A great experience all around! 

Healdsburg Hotel

25 Matheson Street

Healdsburg, CA 95448

(800) 889-7188

I love this hotel on the Healdsburg plaza.  It is a little bit older structure, but it has been updated nicely.  We stayed in a corner suite with a great view of the pool and courtyard.  The level of quality here is great as well.  Great spa products, nice coffee shop, and the continental breakfast is great.  The downstairs sitting area is outfitted with little tray tables next to the fire place and you treat your self to fruits and yogurt, eggs, sausage, bacon, smoked salmon, etc.  Very pleasant way to start the morning.  Also, the concierge is very helpful.  I highly recommend.   

Antonelli's Cheese Shop

Antonelli's Cheese Shop

4220 Duval Street
Austin, TX 78751

(512) 531-9610

I stopped by Antonelli's Cheese Shop today to check the place out.  I'd read a few articles about the place and the story intrigued me - a young couple with no background in the cheese world, set out to learn about it and subsequently opened a little shop on Hyde Park, offering some of the finest cheeses around. 

For anyone that knows me, or has read parts of this blog, you will not be surprised to hear that I'm a tad bit obsessed with cheese.  I'd put it somewhere behind wine, but in front of cooking.  I've gleefully made pilgrimages to Murray's Cheese Shop in NYC, Pure Luck Farm in Driftwood (to actually learn how to make cheese for three days), and Cowgirl Creamery in San Francisco.  I know a little something about cheese.

I'm happy to report that this little, spare store has a small, but well-edited selection.  I spied the usuals - Humboldt Fog, Pure Luck, Epoisse, St. Felicien, Comte, etc. - however there were some new ones.  I checked out the Tarentaise, a semi-hard, golden cheese from Vermont, as well as the Red Hawk from Cowgirl Creamery (an old washed-rind fave) and a really intriguing Blu di Bufala, a blue cheese made from buffalo's milk (boy does it pack a punch).  They have a strong USA representation, with a lot of California and Vermont.  The couple was working behind the counter.  They were both very sweet and helpful when it came to the cheese.    

Antonelli's also offers salumi carrying the heavyweights - Fra'Mani, Creminelli, etc., as well as little cheese accompaniments - nuts, olives, chocolate.  Altogether, it was a very pleasant place.  I'm hopeful that they will do well.  Their website is a little sparse, but they state that they will begin hosting tastings which I would definitely love to check out.  Great little addition to the Austin gourmet food scene.  

Justine's ☆☆☆

Justine's

4710 East 5th Street
Austin, TX 78702-5032

(512) 385-2900

Justine's is a French brasserie located in far east Austin that has been generating a lot of buzz, both locally and nationally since the day it opened.  I think it is worth a trek out to this place just for the atmosphere.  But the food is classic, somewhat hearty Parisian fare and it makes the adventure really worth it.  

The restaurant is in a little house in the middle of nowhere.  There is a seating area outside with seemingly haphazardly arranged tables and chairs.  You can play French Bocce Ball (Pétanque) in the sandy yard while waiting for your table, which, if you arrive after 6:45, could be for a while!  I've actually waited for dinner there for over two hours.  Now, I just go when I'm feeling peckish at an early hour.  The inside is painted a deep red and black and there are little tables and chairs crammed all over the place.  There is a bar to the far left with a collection of old-school records on display.  They offer mixed drinks as well as beer and wine.  The wine list is completely French and frankly the most disappointing part of the whole experience.  They don't seem to store them very well and I've definitely gotten some vinegary reds served to me.  Beware. 

The waitstaff, though somewhat bizarrely dressed (vintage/hipster melange), are prompt.  They bring over bread and olive oil and water glasses and patiently answer questions as you order.  The menu has a nice balance between appetizers, sides and entrees.  I would recommend getting their charcuterie plate (the mousse is insane) or their cheese plate.  

For dinner, if you are feeling on the light side, get one of their soups (they of course have French onion) and a side salad.  The side salad consists of very simply dressed butter lettuce and it is divine.  They also offer sides of ratatouille, which I love, frites, mashed potatoes, etc.  The ratatouille can be ordered as an entree as well, and it is excellent - tons of fresh veggies and herbs like thyme.  I have also had their duck confit, which is really classic and tasty.  Stephen's had their steak frites, côte du porc, the pasta bolognaise, and coquille st. jaques grillé.  While the steak and the scallops were well done, the pork was fantastic - succulent, with a lovely crusty exterior.  The pasta was over-herbed and his least favorite.  

Basically, if you've ever been to a French brasserie, you've had this food before.  It is not imaginative, but it is very comfy and tasty.  Their desserts are another weakness.  They're not bad, they just don't stun.  We tried the requisite creme brulée and were left wanting.  This section of the menu, along with the wine selection are the two aspects I wish they would improve upon.  

Overall, Justine's gets high marks for the atmosphere, the pleasant waitstaff, and the simple but delicious food.  If you're not that picky about your wine and don't like dessert, this place would be heaven for you!  ☆☆☆

Napa/Sonoma Trip - Day One

For our anniversary, we decided to celebrate by heading out to the wine country in northern California.  We spent several days in Napa Valley and Sonoma.  Unfortunately, the weather was not great - it rained a lot!  But as a result, everything was vibrant, almost hyperbolic, in its greenness.  Quite beautiful.

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On day one, it took us forever to get out of SFO and so we just made a quick stop at In-N-Out Burger.  It was actually the first time I had one of their famed burgers.  I confess that I am not much of a fast food person.  I have to say, they are pretty tasty, though, like all fast food burgers (or burgers in general), quite heavy.  I ordered a cheeseburger with grilled onions.  It came with their special sauce, which appears to be some derivation of russian dressing.  What really impressed us was their to go service -they gave us trays for our food and basically extra-large napkins to catch any stray food.  Very nice! 

Chappellet

Our only tasting on Thursday was at Chappellet at Pritchard Hill.  It is located far to the east of Napa valley.  It is a bit hard to get up there, as it is at a high elevation, but it is very pretty.  They are known for their cabernets, but of course they do a bunch of merlots, zins, cab francs, chards, etc.  Apparently they are going to be doing a chenin blanc soon.  That will be interesting to taste!  We ended up tasting a chardonnay, a cab franc, a merlot,   They were lovely to us and we got to taste a 1973 Cabernet.  Pretty fantastic - wines that are that old just have a completely different character.  

Bardessono

6526 Yount Street

Yountville, CA 94599-1270

(707) 204-6000

We spent our first night in Yountville at this gorgeous, spare, environmentally-conscious hotel.  I liked it a lot.  Our room was spacious and calming.  We had a fireplace and cool automatic shades on all of the windows.  The outdoor architecture was beautiful.  They have different designated areas designed around specific trees - we were in Magnolia, we also wandered through Olive and Birch.  Plus they had a wonderful kitchen garden with a crazy artichoke plant.  Lots of water features and stone work decorate the spaces.  This is a soothing place with attentive staff and a high level of quality.  I would definitely go back!

Vintner’s Collective

1245 Main St

Napa, CA 94559

(707) 255-7150

Wow.  The folks here represent 18 small, boutique producers.  We found some wines really like - all under the Ancien label - and one wine maker we think is amazing - Phillipe Melka.  The tasting room is located in downtown Napa in a nice old building that apparently used to be a laundry.  It has a lovely bar and they will pour you a tasting for $25 - 6 wines.  We must have tasted 10 or 12, because I was a tough cookie.  We learned a lot, though.  We enjoyed stopping by before dinner.  

Ubuntu

1140 Main Street

Napa, CA 94559-2639

(707) 251-5656

Ubuntu was fantastic.  This place was crazy good, and a little bit crazy too.  The restaurant cum yoga studio is right on main street in Napa.  The space is a large and open.  There is a bar to the right, part of the kitchen is on display in the back and there is a large communal table in the middle and smaller tables dispersed around the perimeter.  There are definitely some interesting sculptures - the people, the cow bell.  Large photo collage artwork with inspiring sayings on the wall - imagine no possessions, etc.  The waiters are helpful and very proudly tell you that the name is zulu and means extending humanity towards all (bit of BS if you ask me).

We started with a lovely snack of chickpeas with romesco sauce.  They were tender and succulent and gently spiced.  The menu changes depending on what is in their biodynamic garden and what they can get organic produce-wise.  We had the signature dish, which was spring leaves on a sardinian flatbread with thinly sliced and toasted mushrooms and truffled cheese.  It was light and a paean to all that is spring.  Then we had the gnocchi with roasted and raw turnips.  The raw turnips were almost sweet!  Lovely pesto - Stephen wished for more greens.  Then we had a curry with lemongrass and calcots.  The presentation was gorgeous and unexpected - the curry was cold, but tasty!  Finally, we had the grits, with the eggs, ricotta and chard.  This was the heaviest dish by far, but again a harmonious melding of flavors and textures.  All together, wonderful.  Not necessarily as light and healthy as I would have anticipated.  The wine list is small - all biodynamic growers and such.  We had too - a sauvignon blanc and a colombard (reminded me of a torrontes).  

Desserts were spectacular - Stephen had the chocolate and I had the pain perdue.  I would go back to this restaurant in a heartbeat.  Yum!  

Asparagus Tart

I made this lovely tart for the Loire Valley Wine Tasting.  It is almost like a quiche, but a bit more free-form and even hearty due to the addition of a little potato.  Loosely based on a similar recipe from Jamie Oliver's Jamie at Home, it was a crowd pleaser....

1/2 lb of potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

1 1/2 lb of asparagus, the ends trimmed

1 puff pastry package, defrosted

1 cup freshly grated white cheddar cheese

1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano or pecorino, plus more for grating over top of tart

3 eggs

1 cup whole milk (or cream, if you're feeling indulgent)

1/2 tsp grated nutmeg

1 tbsp butter

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Bring a pot of water to boil, and add salt before blanching your asparagus for 4-5 minutes.  Remove and allow to dry in a colander.  Add the potatoes to the boiling pot and cook for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, roll out the puff pastry (if in two pieces, dot an edge of one of the pieces with water, overlap it with the other piece, and roll out to form one large piece) and place in a lightly oiled or buttered baking dish.  I used the biggest one I could find in my kitchen.  

4. Combine the cheeses (reserve a bit for sprinkling on top later), the nutmeg and the milk (or cream) in a bowl.  Taste.  If a bit bland add salt.  Since you're adding eggs to this mixture, don't be afraid to make it a little salty (but not too much).  Add the eggs to the mixture and stir to combine.  

5. By this time, the potatoes should be done, drain and allow to air dry briefly, before adding them to the egg/cheese mixture.  Mash the potatoes with the eggs and cheese until you achieve a smooth consistency.  Pour the mixture into the puff-pastry lined baking dish and spread out evenly.  

6. Carefully place the asparagus evenly on top of the potato/egg/cheese mixture.  Feel free to be as artistic as you want, but try to achieve a generally even distribution so the tart bakes evenly.  Melt the tablespoon of butter and brush the asparagus with it.  Then sprinkle the remaining cheese on top and place in the oven. Bake for 40-50 minutes until the crust is golden brown, the potato/egg is nicely set, and the asparagus are just beginning to get a bit crispy on top.  Remove from the oven and let rest before slicing and serving.  

Loire Valley Wines - Tasting 4 6 2010

Loire Valley Wine Tasting April 6th, 2010

This month we tasted wines from an under-appreciated region of France - the Loire Valley.  This area, known as the "garden of France", is in the northwest, not far from Paris. As a result, the Parisians have been quaffing Bourgueils and Vouvrays for centuries; the rest of the world is just starting to catch up.  This region is varied with many unusual grape varieties - Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc, etc. - and many sub-climates, making for a very interesting tasty.  These wines would all be considered very food friendly and all of them wines were under $20!  

Château Moncontour Brut ~ $17

Vouvray, Touraine

Chenin Blanc

This lovely, honey-colored sparkling wine was a crowd favorite.  The Chenin Blanc gives the wine a richer quality than you normally find in wines predominately based on Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Nice citrus aromas with biscuity undertones.  Creamy on the palate, with perhaps a little stone fruit and caramel.    

Chateau de la Ragotiere 2007 ~ $16

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Pays Nantais

Melon de Bourgogne

Don't be fooled by the name, this is not a sweet wine based on the muscat grape, but a briny, minerally seafood friendly delight!  It is a pale straw color.  Has great apple and pear aromas on the nose as well as a little sparkle from remaining sur lie for 8 months.  

Domaine le Peu de la Moriette 2008 ~ $15

Vouvray, Touraine

Chenin Blanc

Vouvray, along with Sancerre, are probably the most recognized wines from the Loire Valley.  This pale Chenin Blanc exhibits all the honeyed, floral aromas of a classic Vouvray.  However, this is not a sweet, insipid wine, there is a tight minerality on the palate with peach and other stone fruit.  

Domaine de la Rossignole “Cuvée Vielles Vignes” 2008 ~ $20

Sancerre, Central Loire

Sauvignon Blanc

This has been a personal favorite for years as a great, classic example of Sancerre.  It has a great flinty, almost - steely, slate and citrus nose.  Wonderful stone fruit and citrus on the palate.  This pale-straw wine has great acidity and is a bright, fresh wine to drink on a warm day.  

Chateau Soucherie Rosé de Loire 2008 ~ $16

Anjou, Anjou-Saumur

Cabernet Franc

Pale pink, almost salmon-colored Rose with orange and strawberry on the nose.  The palate was underwhelming, with a tangy, creamsicle edge that most were not fond of.  The clear loser of the tasting.  

Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens 2006 ~ $18

Chinon, Touraine

Cabernet Franc

This slightly opaque, ruby colored Cabernet Franc is a lovely example of the varietal.  Medium-bodied it has aromas of raspberries and spice on the nose with a mineral, earthy edge on the palate.  This tight wine needed to open up a bit, but once it did, it was great.  

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Cuvée Alouettes 2007 ~ $19

Bourgueil, Touraine

Cabernet Franc

Another long-time personal fave.  I find the Bourgueil to be a little more refined than the Chinon.  While a clear, deep red, it too exhibits raspberry-blackberry aromas and maybe even violets on the nose.  It has taut minerality with a nice peppery edge and an earthy finish.  For me, this is an elegant wine that has great acidity, moderate tannins and lovely fruit.  

~ All of these wines were sourced locally, in Austin.  Many thanks to Jayla, Chris, Erica, Dave, Kari, Dyan, Deborah, Stephen, Lindsey and Emma for joining me!

Enoteca ☆☆☆☆

Enoteca

1610 South Congress Avenue

Austin, TX 78704

(512) 441-7672

Ah Enoteca.  What can I say?  I love the place, pure and simple.  It is a fantastic little italian taverna on South Congress from the proprietors of the excellent italian ristorante Vespaio.  It’s relaxed ambience, tasty creations and reasonable prices all combine to create a great dining experience.  If you live in Austin and haven’t been yet, you are truly missing out.  

Enoteca occupies a corner lot at the intersection of South Congress and Milton (?).  It has a little outdoor dining area along milton, that is quite lovely to sit in most of the year (they have heaters in the winter).  The inside is very brasserie-esque.  There are little french bistro tables and chairs (which can be too small sometimes to hold all of the diners’ plates) as well as a cold case and long bar.  The cold case contains a selection of cheeses, antipasti and salumi that are both available to go and to eat in the restaurant.  In addition, there is always an excellent selection of pastries, breads and desserts on offer (I adore the macaroons and some in my acquaintance can’t say no to the cannoli).  In general the ambience is relaxed and casual - this is about good comfort food - italian style.

Food is the star at Enoteca.  While they had a decent little wine list, it’s not spectacular.  What keeps me coming back again and again is the excellent, simple, italian bistro fare.  I go for brunch, I go for lunch, I go for dinner.  They’re all good!  I’ll begin my discussion with lunch and dinner (the menu is the same for both).  The top portion is dedicated to appetizers and salads.  I highly recommend the delicately prepared calamari fritto and the suppli (arancini stuffed with mozzarella and covered in marinara).  The salads are also well-prepared; I often make a meal of one of the apps and a salad.  Light and delicious.  In addition to the standard menu, they have specials which change frequently.  These always include a soup and a salad option which have been uniformly good in my experience.  

Being an italian bistro, they of course serve the three P’s - panini, pasta, and pizza!  The panini are actually quite large and are more of an interpretation of the italian original as opposed to a faithful recreation.  I really like the truffled egg, arugula and prosciutto version - the egg adds a lusciousness to the peppery bite of the arugula and the salty prosciutto.  Yummy.  Probably my most favorite item on the menu is the linguine misto mare.  It is a tomato-based seafood pasta that is light and fantastic.  I highly recommend it!  Finally, the pizzas are the rustic, wood-burning oven variety.  They have some pretty interesting options - the lardo for example - I tend to stick to the basics.  Margherita for me!  To go with all of these munchables, there is of course a beer and wine list.  It is rather Italian/French focused, but it is small.  I would not trek to this locale simply for the vino. 

Besides dinner, I love going to Enoteca for brunch.  They have a bread basket - scones, baguette slices, fruit bread with nutella and butter - that is out of this world.  I think the scones are made with crack.  Seriously.  In addition, I love their crepes and even their simple farmer’s breakfast - eggs, pancetta, cheesy polenta and fruit.  Uncomplicated and delicious.   FInally, the baked goods at Enoteca are uniformly tasty.  I love their cripsy/chewey amaretti and delicate macaroons as well as their tira misu!  

All in all, I highly recommend Enoteca. Next time you’re in SoCo check it out.  You won’t be disappointed! ☆☆☆☆

Loire Valley Wines - Cheat Sheet

Lessons Learned or the Top 10 Things to Know about Loire Valley Wines (to sound like a wine geek):

1. The Loire Valley is actually quite long, geographically speaking (the Loire River is the longest in France). It ranges from the Central Loire, close to Orléans, all the way to the maritime region of Pays Nantais, emptying in the Atlantic. This length gives a wide diversity to the wines produced from the region. While principally known for its white wines, it also produces red wines, sparkling wines and dessert wines. The great length of the region also covers many micro-climates as well as soil consistencies.

2. Like all French wine regions, the Loire has been producing wine for centuries, indeed millennia. The earliest known records date to the 500s AD when wine was produced for Rome. Throughout the middle ages, the wines of Anjou, with their easy access to the sea and good transportation system, were the preferred wines of the Flemish and the British, and of course, the French. Bordeaux was not even a thought. Today, however, the Loire Valleys are great bargains because they are generally undervalued outside of Paris. Paris has quaffed the wines with gusto due to its proximity.

3. This region produces very delicate reds that can never be accused of being too tannic - northern climes don’t allow. The wines in general have good acidity, which is great for food. Interestingly, it is not common for the white wines of the region to undergo malolactic fermentation.

4. Many of the wines undergo Chaptalization. Named after Chaptal, it is a process by which the final alcohol level is increased by the addition of sugar to the grape juice or must before and/or during fermentation. This is also known as amelioration. This is chiefly a northern issue and due to cold weather and therefore less ripe grapes.

5. Many of the Loire wines will be labeled “Sur Lie”. Sur Lie means that the wine has remained on lees after fermentation to increase flavor. Again this is a common practice in colder weather since the concern of continued fermentation and hence production of off-flavors is minimized.

6. There are four distinct regions from east to west – Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and the Central Loire.

7. The Pays Nantais is known for producing Muscadet Sèvre et Main. This white wine is made from the unusual varietal, Melon de Bourgogne. The region has soil consisting of schist, granite and sand. The weather is greatly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the wines here are bottles sur lie which enhances the flavor and gives a little CO2 sparkle. Expect fine floral whites with a mineral edge; great with seafood, tangy salty.

8. Anjou-Saumur is further east along the Loire. It is known for producing red and white wines; principal among these are Savennières and Saumurs (Coteaux du Layon is another). The Savennières are complex white wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape – they often need aging. Saumers are lovely light red wines made from the Cabernet Franc grape. In addition there are many rose wines produced, chief among them the Rosé d’Anjou. The region is still influenced by the Atlantic, but is more sheltered. The soil is schistous with slate throughout.

9. Touraine is home to some of the most iconic Loire Valley wines – the Chenin Blanc of Vouvray. Vouvrays often have residual sweetness, due to the northern clime, but this sweetness is balanced with a large amount of acidity. It is said that here, on the north bank of the Loire, the Atlantic climate meets the continental climate. The soil in Vouvray consists of clay and topsoil. The wines are made in a range of sweetness, from Sec to Demi-Sec to Moelleux. These honeyed wines are renowned the world over. Touraine is also the land of Cabernet Franc as expressed through Chinon and Bourgueil. Chinon is south of the river with sandy, alluvial soils, whereas Bourgueil is north of the river and has more tuffeau. Chinon’s are medium-bodied, often exhibiting the scent of lead pencils, with a rounded, soft mouthfeel. Bourgueil is considered a bit “tougher” than Chinon with more of a tannic presence. However, both reds have the aromas of raspberries and are fresh, fruity and invigorating. Serve them chilled.

10. The Central Loire is the eastern-most region and has a continental climate, susceptible to frosts. There are many sub-regions, Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Quincy, etc. However, the two most renowned are Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. Both are wonderful expressions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The town and sub-region of Sancerre are located on a hilltop; Pouilly Fumé is in flatter land on the other side of the river. Most people cannot taste the difference between the two. In general, they are crisp, dry, and tangy with red currant, gooseberry and some citrus. This racy, pungent quality, in bad wines.