This past week I had a chance to eat at two of the famed Momofuko’s in NYC (without having to wait in a long line!). I’ve been reading about David Chang’s highly pork-focused, Asian-oriented eateries for a couple of years now, and eating at one has been on my to-do list for just as long. Let me say that I was not disappointed - this place loves it some pork and presents it in some fantastic ways. But, this is not a dining experience for the light of heart. Be prepared for comfort food overload!
Ssäm Bar is situated in the east village in a small little corner space. The interior is all dark wood panels and low communal tables (following a trend that I noticed in London several years ago). The utensils - chopsticks and forks, etc. - are all piled into large bowls in the center of the tables. Grab them at your leisure, I guess. One of my dining companions informed me that the Noodle Bar is similarly designed with light wood panels. Overall, this places exudes a young hip vibe and asks its diners to put up with small inconveniences like backless stools for chairs and recesses in the walls in which to stuff coats. Don’t take your great-aunt here. She won’t be pleased.
You have to respect a menu that literally has a section entitled “Country Ham”. The layout of the food on offer definitely inspires one to taste and sample. Luckily, I was dining with my cousin, her boyfriend, and one of their friends and so we were able to order quite a selection for all of us to try. To begin with, we ordered one of the raw bar offerings - the cured hamachi with edamame, horseradish and pea leaves - that was delicate and well-balanced, two of the hams - intriguing prosciutto-like delicacies that hailed from Virginia and Kentucky!, as well as the pork baos. The pork baos were fantastic, but beware, not traditional. They were almost deconstructed. They consisted of some tasty pork belly, sliced cucumbers, scallions and barbecue sauce all wrapped up in a bun. Definitely Asian comfort food at its best.
We continued our perusal by order pork shoulder steak, duck, and grilled octopus. I think the pork steak was everyone’s favorite. It was reminiscent of really good filet mignon. I enjoyed the grilled octopus - it was the substantial kind with great smoky edge. Finally, we ordered a side of brussel sprouts, which were tasty, but didn’t really offer the healthy alternative we imagined. I think they must have been soaked in bacon grease. I couldn’t stop eating them. Oh well, it was just one night right?
They have a small list of wines, beers and sakes to order by the glass. I was super excited because they carried one of my most favorite sakes - Dewazakura. I fell in love with Dewaz first in Honolulu when Stephen and I dined at our favorite sushi restaurant on the planet - Sushi Sasabune. I was hooked. I wasn’t able to taste it again until I found it on the menu at Ozumo, a tasty little sushi restaurant in San Francisco. Alas, I have not been able to locate it in Austin. My cousin’s boyfriend ordered a ling ling, a Korean beer I have not tried before. It reminded me of a light beer with a bit more of a crisp bite.
After we finished dinner we rolled down the hallway to the connected dessert purveyor, Milk Bar. We managed to get up to the bar in the crowded eatery relatively easily. We ordered the aptly named Crack Pie and a Cereal Milk Soft Serve Ice Cream. We inhaled the buttery, gooey goodness of the Crack Pie standing at the high tables in the restaurant. The cereal ice cream was amazing. Seriously. Who would think Cereal Milk ice cream would be fantastic? But it was.
I’m really glad I finally got to eat at the Momofuko empire. If you’re in NYC and you aren’t too stressed about time (all but one don’t take reservations and the one that does, Ko, only takes them online a month in advance; it’s insane) I would head downtown. You can’t find better Asian comfort food and relaxed ambiance!
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