Parkside is a casual, fine dining establishment situated in the oddest of places - the east side of sixth street in downtown Austin. Anyone familiar with Austin knows that this particular section of sixth street is synonymous with bars, college students, and general drunken debauchery. Despite this interesting geographical choice, Parkside has established a reputation for excellent, creative dishes to savvy diners who are willing to brave the lack of parking and drunken crowds (Bon Appetit named it one of America's 10 new hot taverns in 2009).
In terms of decor, the restaurant is very warehouse-esque - all exposed bricks and concrete and beams. The tables and chairs are utilitarian and the only table linens are simple red striped cheese clothes that serve as napkins. The area is divided into three spaces. The first room is dominated by a long bar where the bartenders produce seasonally inspired and classic cocktails with much care and finesse. There is a second dining room on the first floor, and then a large rooftop terrace which is often utilized for catered parties and other functions. Overall, the space serves to create a relaxed atmosphere and generally cozy ambiance.
The menu is divided up into several sections. One of the areas of Parkside’s expertise is its raw bar and sashimi offerings. Besides the array of oysters, they make one of the best ceviches in town, as well as a killer bass, lime and jalapeno combination. There are always some standards on the menu, however, they tend to change up the offerings to reflect seasonal offerings, etc. The rest of the menu is divided into starters, entrées, and sides. Like most other trendy restaurants, they have gotten on the “offal” bandwagon. In the starters section you will find Lamb Sweetbreads, Blonde Paté, Head Cheese, etc. (the paté is excellent). Another standout dish is the gnocchi in arugula purée. The gnocchi are feathery light and the purée is like a light pesto - slightly bitter and salty. Delicious. I would highly recommend the soups. They make a killer butternut squash with bacon marshmallows (that’s right, marshmallows). I recently had the Apple Riesling and was quite impressed - it was like a deconstructed German sausage dinner - shredded cabbage, grilled apples, grilled sausage along with a savory broth.
The entrée section of the menu is my least favorite. The starters and raw bar offerings are often filling enough, so I don’t wander over there much. The prices are a bit steep as well. They generally will have a decent white fish option - grilled halibut or bass - that gets the job done well enough. Additionally, they will usually have a lamb dish and some kind of modern take on a steak. I’ve gotten the lamb “duo” and been disappointed; my sister ordered a strip steak dish that she couldn’t finish because it was too raw (despite being ordered medium well; this seems to be a common Austin Trendy Restaurant Problem, ugh). I don’t know, if you’re not filled by the small plates, I would just order a side, like their excellent mac and cheese or grilled mushrooms, rather than an entrée. Plus then you’ll probably be able to save room for dessert which is fabulous! I always get the doughnut holes which are like crack. They come out in a brown paper bag all hot and crispy with a light coating of cinnamon and sugar accompanied by three dipping sauces. The brandy and the butterscotch are lovely. It’s hard to share....
Finally drinks. Parkside has an extensive wine by the glass list; but it’s bizarre. Instead of listing a wine’s name, vineyard, producer, vintage, etc. they simply will say “Verdicchio (it)” or Sauvignon Blanc (ca)”. For a wine geek like me, it’s not satisfying and I often feel like I’m playing a guessing game (they have a nice sommelier, but the waiters never know anything about wine). Mercifully, the bottle list goes back to standard convention mentioning more than just varietal and/or region. As mentioned earlier, the bartenders are excellent and produce creative drinks based on fresh ingredients. Try the Strawberry Sunshine (strawberry stoli, lime, cava); mmmmm.
Overall, Parkside gets high marks on the small plates and raw bar as well as their excellent dessert selections (just avoid the entrées). While the wine list is frustrating, it is generally well edited so you are not likely to be tasting a swill wine; in any case, opting for a mixed drink is always a good choice. The location is something of a mystery. My husband and I continually wonder as to how the place manages to get by since it is never full. However, we don’t complain too loudly because it always ensures a good, relaxed meal when all of our other favorite watering holes are mobbed on a Friday or Saturday night. Next time your feeling up for some delicious, creative small plates give Parkside a try. You won’t be disappointed.☆☆☆
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