Lessons Learned or the Top 10 Things to Know about Spanish Wines (to sound like a wine geek):
1. Geography and Diversity: For most people, Spanish wine means Tempranillos from Rioja. However, Spain is an amazingly diverse wine region. With the most land under vine in the world, it has many different wine-growing areas and they are all unique both in their geography and climate, but also in the types of varietals and the styles of the wines. An Albariño from Galicia is very different from a Sherry from Jerez or a Garnacha from Priorat. This diversity evolved due to the many mountainous regions and the lack of paved roads. Many of the wine regions we enjoy today were virtually inaccessible except by mule-path well into the late 1800’s. This inaccessibility has contributed to the development of so many unique regions in a relatively small geographical area. In addition, there are many varietals that are particular to Spain and its sub-regions. Godello, Mencía, Hondarrabi Zuri and Albariño are just a few of the many.
1. Geography and Diversity: For most people, Spanish wine means Tempranillos from Rioja. However, Spain is an amazingly diverse wine region. With the most land under vine in the world, it has many different wine-growing areas and they are all unique both in their geography and climate, but also in the types of varietals and the styles of the wines. An Albariño from Galicia is very different from a Sherry from Jerez or a Garnacha from Priorat. This diversity evolved due to the many mountainous regions and the lack of paved roads. Many of the wine regions we enjoy today were virtually inaccessible except by mule-path well into the late 1800’s. This inaccessibility has contributed to the development of so many unique regions in a relatively small geographical area. In addition, there are many varietals that are particular to Spain and its sub-regions. Godello, Mencía, Hondarrabi Zuri and Albariño are just a few of the many.
2. History: Spain has experienced a recent oenological renaissance. The peoples of the Iberian Peninsula have been producing wine since at least the Roman times. During the middle ages and most of the last millennia, the dry, fortified wines of Andalucía were the prized export. With changing tastes in the 1800’s, several highly influential wine makers journeyed to France to learn their wine-making techniques - Marquéses Murrieta and Riscal – and they brought them back principally to Rioja. They produced well-structured reds from Tempranillo and the wine boom was off. Phylloxera hit late in Spain, devastating many of the vineyards. By the time they were able to recover, the country was gripped by civil war. Beginning in the 1970’s, Spain incorporated modern wine production techniques, and the industry began to become a force.
3. Labels: Wines are generally labeled for location and age. For location they will be mostly labeled vino de la tierra (VdlT), denominación de origen (DO) or denomincaión de origen calificada (DOC). VdlT wines are country wines that can cover quite large areas. DO wines are produced from a designated region according to local regulations. DOC wines meet certain higher specifications regarding location, production means and varietal (Rioja, Priorat, Cava). However, many excellent wines do not meet these specifications and so they can be unhelpful. For age, wines can be labeled as jóven, crianza, reserva and gran reserva. Jóven generally has spent no time in oak barrels. Crianza has spent at least 6 months in an oak barrel, reserve 12 months and gran reserva 18 months. In theory the gran reserva should be the finest wines.
A sampling of regions below:
4. Andalucía
Location: southwest Spain with coasts on the Atlantic
Climate: though far south, the climate is moderated by ocean
Soil: high chalk content (albariza) which soaks up water
Varietals: Palomino Fino and to a much lesser extent, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel are planted (the latter are sweet wine grapes)
Tasting Notes: salty tang, nuttiness, pungent spice, citrus
Key Facts: Jerez is the land of fortified wines. Fortified wines are often blends and are usually not vintage specific. Initially, they are made just like a dry white or red wine. It goes through a second process where it is put into large tanks only 5/6 full with a bit of grain alcohol for fortification and nutrients. Some develop a yeasty layer known as flor, it gives them a nutty, yeasty character while protecting them from the air. After all of the blending is done and the flor dies, the oxidative process begins. Then the wines are blended in the Solera system – young are continually added to old to create a consistent wine. Fino are lightest, Amontillado is a fino aged 5 years, and Olorosos are rich and pungent and aged 10 years. The wines from Sanlúcar in particular grow flor very well and the light wines are known as Manzanillas. They have a pronounced salty tang and a hint of citrus zest.
5. Rioja
Location: northeast interior, this highland area is protected by the Pyrénées
Climate: hot summers, long, mild autumns and cold winters
Soil: Clay soil with a high calcium carbonate content
Varietals: has a reputation for Tempranillo, it is actually a great blending region like Bordeaux and the typical wine is a mix. You will often find Tempranillo, followed to a much lesser extent by Garnacha and other varietals such as Mazuelo (Cariñena)
Tasting Notes: ripe reds with a strawberry-raspberry edge, underpinned with oak
Key Facts: - one of the first regions to experience a renaissance in the 1850’s
6. Castilla y León
Location: north central Spain, not far from Madrid
Climate: sheltered by the mountains of León from too much Atlantic influence, can get very cold as well as very hot and there is little rainfall in the summer, so you can see irrigation
Soil: High, hilly land with alluvial, clay soil that is chalk rich
Varietals: Tempranillo, Verdejo
Tasting Notes: Big, dark, fruity wines that can age; for the whites, fresh, delicate, fruity and crisp.
Key Facts: the ancient heartland of Spain. Ribero del Duero means banks of the river Duero, but almost none of the vines are planted near the. Used to have only one great wine grower - Vega Sicilia, now there has been an expansion. Here Tempranillo is allowed to stand alone as the cool conditions are ideal. Rueda is known for its white Verdejos.
7. Catalonia
Location: northeast Spain on the Mediterranean
Climate: temperate Mediterranean climate with little rainfall (arid)
Soil: granite soils predominate
Varietals: reds made principally of Garnacha, but also of Monastrell and Cariñena as well as other varietals and sparkling wines made usually from a trio - , Xarel.lo, Macabeo and Parellada
Tasting Notes: intense, red fruit red wines and light, gently fruity sparkling wines with creamy acidity
Key Facts: actually has a different language then Castilian. Initially, this area was known for Cava - the sparkling wine of the sub-region Penedès. Since the 1980’s the region has been producing excellent reds. The most prestigious region is Priorat, followed by Montsant and Tarragona.
8. País Vasco (Basque Country)
Location: far northeast Spain on the Atlantic ocean (the vineyards are close to the ocean in terraces)
Climate: green, moist and cold
Soil: alluvial clay soil
Varietals: Hondarabbi Zuri
Tasting Notes: crisp white wines that are left on their lees in tightly sealed containers - so CO2 forms and they spritz!
Key Facts: Speak a separate language. Phylloxera never made it here, so these are originals! The main area is Chacolis or Txakolina (there are three subregions)
9. Galicia
Location: far northwest Spain on the Atlantic ocean, very green
Climate: dominated by the ocean, summers can be dry, but there is a lot of rain overall (mold risk)
Soil: deep river valleys and granite peaks - granite characteristics
Varietals: Albariño is king
Tasting Notes: Fresh light, acidic wines that go really well with seafood. There is no malolactic fermentation, so there is a lot of apply characteristics.
Key Facts: Speak a different language. Mold is a large concern because of the climate. Main region is Rías Baixas.
10. Bierzo
Location: north central/northwest Spain (really part of Castilla y León, but feels separate)
Climate: closer to the sea, it is more temperate with cooler temperatures
Soil: mixture of quartz and slate
Varietals: Mencía, Godello
Tasting Notes: light reds that are quire floral and can age more
Key Facts: Mencía is said to be related to Cabernet Franc. Since cooler temperatures, don’t get the more fruit-bomb edge associated with other areas.
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