Tuesday, July 20, 2010

South African Wines - Cheat Sheet

Lessons learned or everything you need to know about South African Wines (to sound like a wine geek!)

History 

South Africans, contrary to popular conception, have actually been making wines for centuries.  The small region of Constantia, right outside Cape Town, produced amazing, Muscat-based dessert wines in 18th century.   In the 1860’s, things fell apart.  The British removed tariffs on non-empire wines, and French wines became effectively cheaper (less transport time too).  Then Phylloxera hit, and many of the old vines were decimated.  During the last century, the Cape was hamstrung by powerful farming lobby - KWV.  The KWV basically set prices and produced low-quality wine or juice for distillation.  In the 1990’s, some of the KWV’s power was scaled back, production needs were lowered and the stage was set for a wine renaissance.  Also, socially, South Africans shifted away from a beer and spirit world to wine world.    

Climate and Geography

South Africa is a relatively warm, dry place.  The climate is not necessarily conducive to wine-making, it would be better if South Africa was a bit further south.  There’s a lot of sunshine in this Mediterranean climate – warn summers and cold, wet, blustery winters.  The Benguela current from Antarctica does make it cooler along the coasts.  As a result, most wine regions, or drylands, are irrigated (similar to riverlands of Australia); unless they are out along the coasts.  The climates and geography, however, are actually quite varied.  There are mountains, valleys, desserts etc.  Overall, Ph tends to be low and so Lime additions necessary.  Also rainfall varies, and some wineries might need to rely on irrigation.  There is a mixed blessing in the form of the gale-force summer south-easter, the Cape Doctor Wind, which gets rid of moisture and fungal issues but beats up the grapes.  

Viticulture & Varietals

Varietals are known as cultivars.  The major grape of the region is Chenin Blanc, known as Steen.  It used to be made into box wines that were fixtures at the Braai.  Also, it was used for distillation.  Red wine varietals were not planted a lot.  In the late 1990s this began to change.  One of the unique cultivars is Pinotage – a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut – it is not for everyone.  Most of the reds were burly, tough wines, but with new canopy management and other methods such as controlled malolactic fermentation oak aging, wines of greater finesse are being produced.  As mentioned above, the low pH soils still produce musts that are low in acidity requiring the addition of tartaric acid in the wine making process.  Finally, even though there has been a push for other varietals, Chenin Blanc and Cinsaut, very hardy grapes, will remain popular in South Africa because of poor grape quality due to virus-infected planting material.  

Regional characteristics are still sufficiently lacking in definition.  There is a Wine of Origin system which is similar to the French AOC system.  But really, it’s the varietal, not the region that controls the type of wine you’re drinking still.  

Wine Regions

Constantia – A cold region, since it is cooled by sea on two sides, with wet but moderate summers.  It is located tight outside of Cape Town.  There is rich, loamy, sandstone soil which causes the vines to be very productive – pruning is a must!  

Stellenbosch – This red country is the oldest region after Constantia.  The sandy, alluvial valley floors are surrounded by blue-gray mountains.  It is best known for Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz, and Pinotage as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.  Stellenbosch is the hub of South Africa’s wine industry.  It has varied microclimates, elevations and soil.  One advantage is its frontage onto False Bay, which has a cooling effect.  Additionally, the summer Cap Doctor wind keeps vineyards cool.  

Paarl  - This is the warm home of an increasing number of well-known estates.  The name means pearl.  The region has varied topography, soils and microclimates and it produces everything ranging from port to sparkling wine (Methode Cap Classique). It is a particularly good producer of Viognier, Semillon, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cabernet and Merlot.  The wine is styled for easy, early, everyday drinking.  A small sub-region, has been getting a  lot of acclaim.  Unfortunately, much of the wine does not make it the States.  The sub-region is called Franschhoek, which means French corner, it is one of the prettiest parts of South Africa. 

Breede River Valley Region – There are two sub-regions.  The first, Worcester, is a fertile district nestled behind mountains that definitely needs irrigation. The second, Robertson, has a lot of limestone, which is great for chardonnay and sparkling wines!!!

Cape Point District – This is the newest region and holds promise for colder-weather varietals as it is right on the Atlantic.  

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