Perla's ☆☆☆

Perla’s

1400 South Congress Ave, Austin TX 78704

512-291-7300

Open, in some format, 11:00 AM to close 7 days a week (including Sunday & Saturday Brunch)

Perla’s Seafood and Oyster Bar opened to much anticipation in the spring of 2009 promising gulf-inspired seafood dishes and specialty cocktails. The brainchild of the owners and chef behind Lambert’s (a very popular Austin BBQ restaurant), the new restaurant seemed perfectly poised for its trendy SoCo location. Since opening, Perla’s has become a sought after dining destination both in the landscape of Austin and on the national scene (it was named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants this summer). The Chef, Lawrence McGuire, has transferred his love of grilling and piquant spices he acquired at Lambert’s successfully to the cuisine he offers at Perla’s.

Perla's is a light and airy environs; it is downright reminiscent of the beach! One of the space’s defining features is its large outdoor patio area which is generously shaded by several live oak trees. The spot is very popular with the happy hour crowd and with diners late into the evening as well. The interior is all white and blue and yellow. The first thing you encounter is a very large saltwater fish tank - appropriately setting the sea focus of the dining experience. There is a large bar and cocktail area to the left, and general seating and banquettes to the right. Everything is jauntily done up in seaside colors and whitewashes. It is quite cheerful really.

McGuire and Co. have succeeded in producing a menu that references the gulf coast but also combines elements of central Texas - namely mesquite grilling and smoking and Mexican touches. You’re greeted by hush puppies - which are fantastic - upon ordering. Well, ideally you should be served these immediately, however in my experience you often have to request them multiple times (the waitstaff can be a bit daft). There is a substantial offering of raw bar options (oysters, shrimp cocktail, ceviche), which are great as apps or as happy hour snacks. The appetizers, soups and salads are all creative and generally well -edited. I particularly enjoy the gazpacho in the summer (I’ve ordered it every time) and the shrimp bisque in the winter (very warming and soothing). I also like the hefeweizen mussels and the new wood-grilled oysters (these are a riff off of a popular New Orleans appetizer) which are topped with breadcrumbs, garlic, other spices and butter. Some of the apps can be a little much. I definitely disliked their BBQ shrimp when I had it - the shrimp were undercooked and the sauce was more a greasy mess than anything else. Could have been a one time thing, but it was yucky enough that I haven’t even considered giving it a second chance.

The rest of the menu is devoted to Po-Boys, simple wood-grilled fish, and entrée selections. The Po-Boys are huge and, according to my Husband, fantastic. You can request a combination shrimp and oyster. The sandwich is dressed with a decently spicy mayo which gives the whole combination a nice piquant edge. You will also receive a mountain of shoe-string fries. The simple wood-grilled fish options perhaps too perfectly encapsulate the term "simple". I’ve ordered grilled bass with a lemon-herb sauce and found the whole affair to be reminiscent of a mother’s weeknight cooking - well done, but un-imaginative. Mothers generally have the excuse that they are managing boisterous children and various other activities, I’m not sure what Perla’s is.... The entrées are much more imaginative, with excellent veggie pairings and sauces. However, when I’ve ordered from this side of the menu, I’ve often been disappointed by the dryness of the fish. It looks really pretty, I just wish the taste lived up to the image some times. I will say this about Perla’s, I never leave hungry. In my upwards of 10 dining experiences I have never once had the desserts! This is a failing I hope to correct some time soon, but generally, I’m just too full by the end of my meal to handle any sweet concoctions.

The drinks at Perla’s are one of their fortés. They have followed the artisanal bandwagon when it comes to their mixed drinks and they excel in their execution. They offer both signature and classic options - I’ve found the Pelican to be quite tasty (coconut puree, aged rum, palm sugar, and mango nectar). Their wine list is also well designed. It actually offers a pretty good value - there isn’t a single bottle over $100. Many of the wines are by the glass as well. The list is predominantly sourced from Cali producers, however there are some interesting additions from locales such as Greece and Argentina.

Overall, Perla's is a relaxed dining experience that provides diners with interesting and diverse seafood options. It is not, however, a bargain dining experience. The appetizers are not overly expensive, however, the entrées mainly are priced in the 20 to 30 dollar range. Another con, which I've already hinted at, is the waitstaff. While generally knowledgeable, they are not very attentive. I've definitely felt a bit abandoned - on a recent dining experience, my party actually managed to finish off a bottle of wine before even being able to place our food order - and not for lack of trying to flag our waiter.

If you're in the SoCo area and looking for a reasonably light and well done seafood option, I would definitely suggest checking out Perla's. Additionally, it is an excellent choice for happy hour, especially on pleasant evenings when you can sit outside on the patio and enjoy the hustle and the bustle of the neighborhood. Overall, ☆☆☆.