Wines of the South of France - Tasting 6 29 10

Wines of the South of France Tasting June 29th, 2010

This month we tasted the wines of the South of France.  We actually covered two main regions - Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence.  Though known for idyllic vistas, great vacations and more intense and spicy food (think Bouillabaise), the south of France also offers great deals in terms of wine.  We sampled several wines that were less than $20!

 

Hughes Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet 2009 ~ $10

Coteaux De Lanquedoc

Picpoul

 

The only white in the line-up, this was a crowd favorite! Light and refreshing, it had a floral-lemony nose. The palate was briney and continued the floral-lemon taste delicately. For the price point, this is a deal!!!

 

Commanderie de Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé 2009 ~ $20

Provence

Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren

 

This salmon-colored rosé was well-received. It had a strawberry, floral nose, but it was light and a bit underwhelming on the palate. It tasted a bit of a fleshy, stone fruit – maybe peach? I think this would be a good hot day wine and that it would work very well in Sangria.

 

Domaine la Suffrene Bandol Rosé 2009 ~ $23

Bandol, Provence

Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan

 

Another salmon-colored rosé, this wine was much more impressive. It had a round, strawberry scent on the nose with, perhaps, a bit of white pepper. The palate was intense, acidic in a mouth-watering way, and tasting of almost gooseberries and more white pepper. For serious rose drinkers.

 

Château Coupe Roses Minervois La Bastide 2006 ~ $14

Minervois, Languedoc

Grenache, Carignan

 

This wine was a fantastic, almost magenta color. It had a restrained, red-fruit aroma on the nose. On the palate, there was a clear expression of earth, but not much fruit. It had a good tannic structure and a plush mouth feel. Overall, a nice little wine for the price.

 

Château de Caladroy Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Cuvée Saint Michel 2006 ~ $20

Roussillon

Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache

 

Corked!!! Replaced with:

 

Foxen Williamson-Doré Vineyard Grenache 2007 ~ $35

Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara

Grenache

 

Everyone loved this California wine. It demonstrated the difference between new world and old world with its bold fruit expression, especially on the nose. It had great black fruit, almost pomegranate tastes on the palate. Unfortunately, this was a limited release...

 

Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Rouge 2008 ~ $13

Corbières, Languedoc

Carignan, Grenache, Syrah

 

This brick red wine was underwhelming. It did not have much of a discernable nose – maybe a bit of red fruit? It was more delicate and almost tart on the palate with light fruit and a little earth. Blah.

 

Domaine Tempier Bandol 2007 ~ $43

Bandol, Provence

Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah

 

My favorite wine of the evening! It had a deep, dark magenta color, but without much opacity. The nose was intense with black fruit, leather and a smoky undertone. This tannic powerhouse actually was very smooth on the palate. It had a supporting smoke/tar undertone with elegant black fruit earthiness on top. This is a well-crafted wine.

 

Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage 2007 ~ $25

Banyuls, Roussillon

Grenache

 

The only dessert wine of the evening, this was a favorite. It has a deep purple color and a slightly syrupy consistency. It has a bit of a funky nose – chocolate? Black fruit? On the palate it is sweet and delicate, with earthy-chocolate notes and black fruit. A great way to end the evening.

Ratatouille & Pissaladière

Ratatouille

 

I made this ratatouille for my South of France Wine Tasting.  Ratatouille is one of those fun, hodge podge recipes - everyone has one and they are all slightly different.  The basic point is to make a vegetable stew of sorts out of the summer's bounty.  The requisite vegetables are eggplants, zucchini, tomatoes, bell peppers and onions, but I'm sure there are some very good recipes that have alternate lists.  Everything should taste garden fresh, but should also meld together, into one homey, satisfying dish. 

 

2 large eggplants, 1-inch cubes

4-5 zucchini, 1-inch cubes

2 onions, diced

2 bell peppers, diced

2 pints cherry tomatoes, each cut in half

4 cloves of garlic, skin removed

fresh thyme and rosemary sprigs (3-4 each)

2 bay leaves

fresh basil to taste, chiffonaded

olive oil

splash of red wine vinegar

sat and pepper to taste

 

1.    Heat an oven to 400 degrees.  On a baking sheet, toss tomato halves with olive oil and a bit of salt and pepper.  Roast the tomatoes until they begin to look a bit shriveled and concentrated, about 20 to 25 minutes. 

2.    Meanwhile, In a large dutch oven, heat 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Once at the desired temperature, add the onions and the garlic cloves and sauté for 5-6 minutes, until they begin to turn translucent.  Remember to add salt and pepper to each ingredient as you add it to the sauté mixture. 

3.    Add the bell peppers, and continue to sauté the mixture for 5 more minutes, before adding the eggplants and sautéing for another 5 minutes.  Finally, add the zucchini and sauté for another 5 minutes.  At this time, remove the tomatoes from the oven and add them to the sauté mixture, along with the thyme, rosemary and bay leaves.  Lower the heat and cover, stirring occasionally for 35 minutes. 

4.  After 35 minutes, the vegetables should still be identifiable, but they should have begun to melt into each other.  Add the red wine vinegar and taste to check whether it needs salt or pepper.  Cook, uncovered for another 5 minutes. 

5.    Remove from heat, stir in the basil, and serve!

 

Pissaladière

 

I decided to attempt this for my South of France Wine Tasting.  Disclaimer - I certainly took some shortcuts (store-bought pizza dough) and omitted some rather classic ingredients (anchovies).  I still feel that the spirit of this French pizza remains the same.  The only hard part is finding the time to caramelize the onions....

 

3-4 large onions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves

several fresh thyme sprigs

1/2 cup chopped olives, any variety will do (just no pits)

olive oil

pizza dough

salt and pepper to taste

 

1.    In a sauté pan, heat up 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat.  Add the onions, the thyme sprigs and the garlic, as well as salt and pepper, and slowly brown them.  This will take around 40 minutes (no joke, maybe even longer depending on pan size and onion size).  Once nicely caramelized, remove from heat and put to the side (this can be refrigerated overnight).  Be sure to mash up the garlic, if still recognizable. 

2.    In the meantime, heat your oven to 450 degrees with a pizza stone placed in the middle of the oven, if available (or to the temperature setting recommended by your pizza dough package).  Roll out pizza dough and place on either a baking sheet covered in cornmeal or, if working with a pizza stone, on a pizza peal covered in cornmeal.  The traditional shape is a long rectangle, but feel free to experiment.  Liberally brush the top of the pizza dough with olive oil.  Spread out a thin layer of the onions on the dough, followed by an artful arrangement of the olives.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper, as desired, and douse one last time with olive oil, as desired. 

3.    Bake the pissaladière until nicely crisped and golden, about 10 to 15 minutes.  Remove from the oven, slice and serve! 

 

 

Wines of the South of France - Cheat Sheet

Lessons Learned or the Top Things to Know about the Wines of the South of France (to sound like a wine geek!)

The South of France contains three main regions - Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon.  These regions cover a very diverse collection of geography, climates and varietals but also cultures and even languages.  Until railroads connected the south with the rest of France in the late 1800’s, these beautiful regions were somewhat isolated and distinct.  Now, of course, everyone is familiar with a lovely rosé from Provence or a good table wine from Pays d’Oc.  These regions offer lots of hidden gems as well...  

Languedoc

The Languedoc encompasses a region directly in the middle of the south of France on the Mediterranean.  The people there actually used to speak a separate language Occitan and there is still a distinct cultural difference. The vignerons tend to despise the AC system and even appear anarchist.  This is a bit of a wild countryside.  

The region has the highest volume of production in France, but not necessarily the highest quality.  It does have a lot of good value wines in the form of Vin de Table and vin de pays d’oc.  There has been a concerted effort to improve the quality of the wines produced through vine-pulling schemes to reduce the volume. 

This is an extremely old region; it has been producing wine since at least roman times around Narbonne.  The 17th century saw an expansion with the Dutch wine trade.  However, the region was eclipsed by other areas due to transportation issues that weren’t resolved until the rail system in the late 1800’s.  Now there has been an influx into this “hinterland” by the wealthy to set up lifestyle wineries.  

This is a coastal region with a Mediterranean climate.  Drought is the biggest problem, followed by the wind known as the Tramontane.  Most of the land is flat and alluvial though there are some foothills.  The soil consists of gravel and limestone.  Vineyards are often planted on counteract heat issues.  A problem is handling ripeness.  Tend to pick early because afraid of over-ripening.

Mostly red wine is produced, though there is some white.  Also produce sweet wine from the muscat grape.  Carignan is the dominant variety but it is considered the bane of European wine making (though some old vines are nice).  It is high in everything - acidity, tannins, color, bitterness, but no finesse.  As a result it is being planted less and less.  Grenache is the second most planted followed by Cinsault (great for rosé), Syrah , Mourvedre and other tiny varieties, such as Picpoul.   Generally produce dense, exciting, supple wines that are an example of the wild countryside.

The Languedoc contains many sub-regions; below a few of note: 

Corbieres produces dense, red, herby wines with spice and some rosé.  It is located in the Pyrenean foothills in rugged mountainous terrain.  Carignan is the dominant variety.   

Minervois produces reds that are generally more supple than Corbieres.  This is the land of the Cathars!  The wines are less single varietal and more blends with Syrah and Grenache having to be 20%.  White minervois is increasingly aromatic and sophisticated.  Red wines undergo carbonic maceration a red wine-making process which transforms a small amount of sugar in grapes which are uncrushed into ethanol, without the intervention of yeasts.  Used to produce light-bodied, brightly colored, fruity reds for early consumption (lose harsh malic acid).  

Coteaux de Languedoc is the catchall for a varied and extensive region!  It has tons of sub-appellations, including Picpoul de Pinet.  

Roussillon

Although Roussillon is often only seen as the second half of a hyphen Languedoc-Roussillon), it is quite distinct geographically and culturally.  The people are of Catalan origin, rather than French or Occitan.  This is an extremely mountainous region and it has the sunniest climate in France, with not much rain.  Early on Muscat was the varietal of choice, but the region has expanded into other varietals.  This used to be the center for wines in the middle ages - they produced sweet wines for the tastes of the time.  When sweet wine fell out of vogue the region needed to re-orient itself.  Now you can find lots of dense reds that epitomize the mountainous, rugged terrain.  

The Roussillon contains many sub-regions; below a few of note:   

Banyuls is a very famous dessert wine region located right on the border of Spain and  France.  There is no Muscat in Banyuls!  This is a red wine blend with Grenache Noir dominating.  

Cotes du Roussillon is the catchall for another varied and extensive region.   Grenache is the varietal of choice and the wines often have some carbonic maceration.  

Provence

Provence is known for its gorgeous vistas along the Mediterranean coast and today it is quite a tourism mecca.  Indeed, various peoples have been fighting over this region for millennia.  The city of Marseille has existed in some form since 600 B.C. when it was a Greek colony.  Wine production probably began during Roman times.  Much like Languedoc-Roussillon, this region was somewhat isolated from the rest of France until the 1800s, when the railroads were built.

Provence has a coastal climate very much dominated by the Mediterranean.  It receives many days of sun with not much rain.  Even though this is a warm area, it gets chilly in the winter, which is good for the grapes.  The main threat is drought, followed by the wind, the Mistral.  It is a rocky region with the sub alpine hills reaching to the sea.  

Provence has a rich range of vine varieties, perhaps due to large number of occupiers over the centuries.  Indeed, 13 varieties are allowed in Cotes de Provence - Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, Mourvedre. etc.  Grenache is the most planted varietal. 80% of the wine produced is pale, herby rosé.  These wines seem to have a special affinity for garlic and oil based cuisine.    

Provence contains many sub-regions; below a few of note: 

Bandol is a small sub-region on the coast.  The wines of Bandol are dominated by Mourvedre.  The rosés are deep-flavoured and lush. The region is also highly regarded for its res which have aromas of tree bark, leather and currants.  

Cassis is another small, mainly white wine producing region on the coast.  The wines are dry, fleshy, spicy and herby.  The wines are made from the rare Ugni Blanc, Cliarette and Bourboulenc grapes and are perfect with seafood.  

Foreign & Domestic, Food & Drink ☆☆☆

Foreign & Domestic, Food & Drink

306 E. 53rd St

Austin, TX 78751

512 459-1010

Foreign & Domestic opened this summer offering homey yet refined cuisine in a relaxed, hipster-ish vibe.  The restaurant is located north of campus in the middle of a sedate neighborhood.  The brain child of culinary heavyweights husband and wife, Ned and Jodi Elliot, this spot holds much promise. Thus far it seems to be hitting some of the right notes, however, there are some inconsistencies.  I'm interested to see how it evolves... until then, it just gets three stars.

The space is in a renovated garage and is pretty small.  There are probably 20 tables in the place.  It has a very utilitarian feel, but it is light and airy due to the many windows.  There is a counter, and counter seating, in the back behind which all of the cooking action happens.  It's not often that you are so up close and personal with the people actually preparing your food - it seems like a brave move.   They don't take reservations, so be prepared to wait if you get there after 7:30 at night.  They have a little seating area to the side with lime green chairs.  You can sip on a beverage while you wait for your table.

The drink menu is very brief.   There are about 3 red and 3 white wines by the glass, a lonely rose and 1 or 2 sparkling options.  They are all very price conscious and are good examples of some more funky regions - the finger lakes, for example.  I had a nice Gruner Veltliner last time I was there and another diner sampled the rose.  There are about as many beer options, though noticeably no options from Austin, or even Texas.  They also offer one or two mixed drinks which come with the expected unexpected mixers - sparkling wine with rhubarb and black pepper was well designed. 

The food menu is not huge - it is divided into Snacks & Nibbles & Chomps and Plates.  I've had a chance to sample quite a few of both.  Some are very well put together, others the preparation and flavor combinations seem a bit off, or too heavy.  I enjoyed the Green Gazpacho a lot; it had a nice piquant flavor.  Stephen, however, ordered the beef tongue and was quite disappointed.  It was cooked to death and the accompaniments - watercress, horseradish and yogurt - did not seem to set it off well.  Their salads are very nice, I've had both a butter lettuce combination and a grilled peach and artichoke combination.  They are light, toothsome affairs.  I also really like their popovers, but I'm a bit of a popover nut.  The plates seem to be a bit more well thought out.  We really like the Ripper - bacon wrapped sausage with fried pickles, toast and other fixings - but it is not diet food at all.  I also like their vegetarian option - it didn't feel like an afterthought.  Finally, the desserts continue the homey vibe but there are only 4 of them.  They are large, with interesting ingredients and nice texture contrasts.  I really enjoyed the Coconut Sundae.  

Overall though, the presentation seems a bit uneven.  Some things are great, some poor and some seem just a bit confused.  I think it will even out as the restaurant comes into itself.  Looking forward to eating there as it does!  ☆☆☆

East End Wines

East End Wines

1209 Rosewood Avenue

Austin, TX 78702

512 904-9056

This is a new wine shop appropriately located on the east side of town in the revitalized 11th street area.  The shop itself is a cute, little renovated house.  I ventured in on a quiet Saturday recently to check out the selection.  The interior is quite and lined with floor to ceiling shelves of wine.  They have representation from all the main regions - USA, France, Spain, Italy, Australia, etc.  Generally, the wine is in a reasonable price range - I would say they probably average $20-$25, with a healthy portion in the $10-$20 range.  A good strategy for the recession.... I definitely had quite a few of the wines in my own collection, and had tasted many more.  They definitely seem to be going for authenticity - you could fine a mourvedre based Bandol, a classic Spatlese as well as pinot from Tasmania!  The staff was friendly and knowledgeable.  If it was more convenient to where I live I would go more often.  I would recommend checking out.  

Mulberry ☆☆

Mulberry 

360 Nueces Street #20

512 320-0297

Mulberry is a small wine bar offering some tasty snacks that is located in the first level of the Austin 360 building.  I'd recommend it if you're looking for something light to eat with a nice, but not complicated, glass of wine.  

The tiny space tries to take full advantage of the location - the outdoor seating area is larger than the indoor to capitalize on the pleasant view of Austin Music Hall and the Shoal Creek trail.  It is quite pleasant to sit outdoors in the evening, almost any time of year, and take in the passersby and the scenery.  The interior space has a very NYC vibe - it's dark browns and marble and raised ceilings.  It is of course designed by Michael Hsu (what hasn't that man designed in the Austin restaurant world???).  

The wine list used to be longer... It now consists of about 8-10 options for red and white and 2-3 options for rose and sparkling.  As I mentioned above, they are all tasty wines, but not super complicated.  They are wines you would buy for yourself on a Tuesday evening to have with a nice dinner at home.  For example, on a recent evening, Stephen and I had glasses of Naia's Verdejo (from Rueda).  Totally a wine I have in my fridge at home.  It's a good deal!  The wine by the bottle list is more extensive, though I confess, whenever I go to wine bars I hardly ever order a bottle of wine.  For me, their whole purpose is to allow me to sample a bunch of stuff, not linger over one....

The food is tasty, if not remarkable.  It tries to be of the moment and so offers some avant-garde dishes that don't perform that well (check out the watermelon salad - chunks of watermelon on some green goo).  It does do some basics very well - paninis, crostinis and the cheese and charcuterie plates.  Stephen enjoyed a very good prosciutto, mozzarella and pesto version last night; I had some lovely, simple spinach and a little tomato and mozzarella salad.  And when it comes to the cheese plates, they do not scrimp on the amount the give you, which is nice.  None of the dishes really grabs me as a "need to have".  

Overall, the concept is executed decently.  This wine bar is not super-pretentious and offers food and wine in the same vein.  It's a nice place to relax in the evenings.  ☆☆

The New SoLa Bar Scene

Austin's South Lamar has experienced a Bar renaissance over the last year.  What used to be a long stretch of car repair shops and oddball stores, now contains a bevy of relaxed watering holes.  Below five newcomers that are making SoLa a great place to eat and drink after hours....

Red's Porch

3508 South Lamar 

512 440-7337

If it weren't for the over-sized street sign, average passersby would never know Red's Porch existed.  Tucked behind a banking center, the multi-story venue has perfect and stunning views of the greenbelt.  Red's has a relaxed vibe and offers mainly beer (the list is expansive), mixed drinks and a limited wine list.  It also has a great bar menu full of southern-edged comfort food classics such as Onion Rings, Wings, Po-Boys and Tacos (not to mention chicken-fried chicken).  Check it out if you're looking for a great way to unwind after work (just get there early - the place fills up fast!)

Black Sheep Lodge 

2108 South Lamar 

512 707-2744

This beer cum grill - joint is squeezed into the middle of a shopping mall (parking can be a bit of a pain).  It has a bit of a rough urban edge with a small porch out front and an interior designed for informal gatherings (lots of stools and small tables).  The beer selection is excellent - when I've gone I've come across beers I've never even heard of and I've heard of a lot of beers.  They also have a menu offering a pretty complete selection of noshes - I hear the burgers are some of the best in town.  Overall, this is a great place to grab a beer, watch a game and catch up with friends.  

Opa! Coffee and Wine Bar

2050 South Lamar 

512 326-8742

Recently rechristened, this wine bar is fun but a little confused about its identity.  The space seems to serve as an outdoor biergarten of sorts (replete with live music), as a wine bar inside, as well as a coffee shop and a purveyor of Greek foods.   I'm curious to see how it evolves.  The space is pretty-ish with a large tree-covered patio in front and a ramshackle interior (with hastily stuck up Greek god busts, etc.) I enjoyed checking out the wine selection, which is extensive and inexpensive.  Rather than produce some kind of wine list, the wines are lined up along the bar.  Patrons have to wander around the bar looking at all of the bottles to make a decision.  This is not so bad as long as the space is not crowded.  Check out the Greek wine selection and relax into the comfy, coffee shop-esque seats inside.  

The Highball

1142 South Lamar 

512 383-8309

The Highball is the largest SoLa addition.  It is a multi-purpose facility that has been mobbed by hipsters since the first day it opened.  Think retro bowling lanes, skeeball, karaoke and then add a well-stocked bar and gourmet-ish menu and you have the Highball.  The interior is very reminiscent of a '50s diner replete with plush banquets. The bar selection is fantastic.  They make some amazing mixed drinks with fresh fruit and mixers - I love the Thai One On and the Roseberry Fizz.  They have the representative beer and wine menu as well.  The food is pretty tasty - they've already tweaked it a bit since opening.  I thought the spicy quail wings were fun and the onion wings were well-prepared.  I'm dying to try their Thanksgiving Sandwich when I'm really hungry.  Overall, this is a fun place to go if you're looking for drinks and entertainment - just remember to reserve a bowling lane, they book up far in advance.  

The Gibson

1109 South Lamar 

512 386-1345

The Gibson is the newest addition to the SoLa scene.  It is housed in an imposing, all-black, building, which is pretty minimalist, but actually airy inside.  There are plenty of comfy booths to slide into.  They have a decent beer list and make the usual mixed drinks.  Oddly enough, they do not yet seem to offer wines by the glass, so you have to order half or full bottles.  The selection is slim.  The atmosphere is pretty relaxed, but it can get a bit loud at times.  The really cool part is the food trailer - that's right, they too have their very own Austin airstream.  This trailer churns out some pretty interest fare - you can go healthy, but it is mostly of the artery-clogging variety - they have a burger on a doughnut!  All in all, it's a fun place to hang out and grab a beer before heading onto other things for the evening.  

New York in June

Stephen and I spent a weekend in NYC visiting my sister Emma.  We hit some of my usual spots - BG Cafe, Balthazar, Kee's Chocolates, etc. - but added some new ones to the mix.  Most of them had excellent food, but it was of the less-complicated variety.  Homey, but tasty.  Check them out....

Market Table

54 Carmine Street

New York, NY 10014

212 255-2100

This charming restaurant in the west village offers well-executed yet homey dishes in a relaxed and open atmosphere.  I particularly love that exposed brick look and the huge windows overlooking the street.  We had a lovely dinner there including one of the best pan-roasted chickens I've ever had (it was glorious, and it came with this fontina fondue that was to die for).  We sampled the calamari, which was pleasant but not stunning, as well as the risotto and salad special for the day, which was a particularly yummy combination of strawberries and arugula, as well as the halibut.  We were so stuffed by dessert that all we could manage was some gelato.  The wine list is small, but nicely edited.  I sampled an Austrian Zweigelt - a nice rose - which was a first for me.  Overall, not too pricey, I would go back again!

Loreley

7 Rivington Street

New York, NY 10002-1226

212 253-7077

The USA v UK World Cup game was taking place during our stay and Stephen was not going to miss it.  We managed to find a nice German bar/restaurant on the lower east side.  The place was a mad house, but so was everywhere else.  They had a great list of German beers and we ordered a sampler plate of sausages and sauerkraut.  We would have enjoyed sitting outside in the biergarten, but it was packed...

The Limelight

47 West 20th Street 

New York, NY 10011-3701

212 226-7585

My cousin, Stephanie, took us here on Sunday afternoon.  This place used to be a notorious night club, and before that a church!  It is now a little shopping center filled with specialty food stalls, tiny clothing shops and other knick-knack and bric-a-brac purveyors.  Quite a beautiful space and a fun spot to spend a rainy afternoon.

People's Pops

Chelsea Market

75 9th Avenue

New York, NY 10011-7006

212 620-7500

This little shop offers amazing, fresh fruit pops and ices.  The flavor combinations are fun and a bit unusual - I had a blueberry and cardamom version, my cousin had the slightly more usual strawberry and basil.  We didn't sample the ices, but they are probably excellent as they hand shave a huge block of ice to create each cup!

Standard Grill

848 Washington Street

New York, NY 10014

212 645-4646

I've been wanting to try the Standard Grill since last summer, when I first got to check out the hyline.  Even though the Standard Hotel is all about stark modernity, the Standard Grill feels a bit like a throw back to an earlier era with it's white and black trim facade, comfy leather booths, dark wood interior and penny floor.  The food, though pricey and well-executed, has a comfy edge to it as well.  We sampled quite a bit from the dinner menu; particular standouts were the meats we ordered "From the Counter", the Escarole, Feta & Grape Salad, the Ricotta Cavatelli and the Atlantic Halibut.  I also enjoyed a baked-alaska style dessert.  The service was prompt, the wine list, at least by the glass, reasonable and well-priced.  I would recommend if you're in the area!

'Cesca

164 West 75th Street

New York, NY 10023-1903

212 787-6300

I got to go to this upper west side Italian restaurant for a work dinner.  I didn't know what to expect, but it was fantastic.  The food was well prepared, classic and Italian but still had a comfort edge to it.  I really enjoyed the antipasti platter and an orrechiete pasta with lamb sausage.  The sommelier was great as well.  We tried some really unusual regional Italian wines - such as a cabernet franc from Piedmont.  The atmosphere is warm yet restrained, and has a bit of an old world vibe.  Lovely.

Grom

233 Bleecker St

New York, 10014

212 206-1738

I walked past the downtown location (it's right near Market Table) and have been to the upper west side location many times.  This is the brainchild of two northern Italians.  This is seriously gourmet gelato, with prices to match.  Their pistachio is to die for, however, and I will go back and spend whatever I need to just to taste it again!

Nobu Next Door

105 Hudson Street

New York, NY 10013-2331

212 334-4445

My sister, Emma, really wanted sushi, and so on a lark we decided to go to Nobu Next Door.  I've been to Nobu before so I was interested to check out the sister restaurant (it's literally next door) that was billed as being more accessible from both a culinary and a wait list perspective.  It had many of the same classics that made Nobu famous - we ordered the hamachi with Serrano peppers for example - as well as standard Japanese restaurant fare as well - miso, edamame, etc.  It was a nice dinner, but not stunning.  I definitely prefer the original, but this will certainly do in a pinch!

Garden Court Café at the Asia Society Museum

725 Park Avenue

New York, NY 10021

212 288-6400

Stephen and I met my family at Asia Society for a lovely, light lunch in their Garden Court Cafe.  This is a great little gem on the upper east side that turns out pan-Asian cuisine for reasonable prices.  I always enjoy their salads, and the Pad Thai is a good go to.  Plus, the environment is very soothing - you're in a window-filled atrium with bamboo and trees.  What's not to like?

    

Bouchon

10 Columbus Circle

New York, NY 10019-1158

212 823-9366

Part of the Thomas Keller empire, this bakery/cafe is located on the third floor of the Time Warner Center.  It offers the most amazing baked goods - macarons, sticky buns, french breads, viennoiserie - as well as beautifully presented cafe fare - light salads, french-style sandwiches, quiches, etc.  I love making a stop every time I'm in NYC.  I understand my sister, Emma, liked it so much she made it at least a weekly habit.  The Time Warner Center is worth a visit itself if you've never been...

Norwood

The Norwood is a fantastic club of sorts that's members are in the art community - artists, gallery owners, etc.  It's in a lovely townhouse on 14th street.  We were able to go there for after dinner drinks with my cousin and her boyfriend, who's a member.  We sat outside and relaxed in the ivy-lined courtyard, under a large tree strung with Japanese lanterns.  I would recommend going if you know a member.

Some Recent Travel

Lately, I've been doing quite a bit of traveling.  Some of it's been for fun, some for work...  In either case, I have managed to eat at a few nifty places along the way.  

Phoenix, AZ

I've gotten to go to Phoenix in the spring every year for the last three years.  This year, my brother, Clayton, got married there.  We were able to stay at our favorite hotel in Scottsdale, the Westin Kierland.  It's just so pretty - lots of influence from Frank Lloyd Wright - and relaxed (it has a lazy river).  It's supposed to be great for golf too.   I like the restaurant that's actually in the hotel, Deseo.  It serves up latin food including quite a range of ceviches.  Right across the street is the lovely Kierland Commons.  It's an outdoor shopping area that has an upscale range of shops and eateries.  I've tried, and recommend, North (a rustic, Italian spot) and The Greenhouse (California-inspired cuisine).  Finally, in Old Scottsdale, I got to check out Arcadia Farms, which is a really nice and elegant, lunch spot.  

Orlando, FL

I headed to Orlando in early May for a work-related conference.   We stayed in the really nice Grande Lakes JW Marriott - lots of marble and open spaces.  We ate at the hotel's main upscale restaurant, Primo.  It is an Italian restaurant with a strong focus on local and seasonal ingredients.  The chef, Melissa Kelley, opened her first location of Primo in Maine.  Everything was well-prepared, but it was not inspiring, and a little pricey.  

Detroit, MI

I got to travel to Michigan for the first time this summer, and to Detroit no less.  I'm not sure what I was expecting - evidence of economic downturn at it's worst?  I did see a lot of run down homes and un-repaired streets (including 8 Mile), but I also saw some lovely parts of town.  I got to eat at two nice restaurants, both with a fish focus.  I ate dinner at the very posh and sleek Ocean-Prime and then followed with lunch at the more old-school Mitchell's Fish Market.  A pleasant experience.  

Fresno, CA

This was my first time to visit a non-coastal Californian city.  Let me just say that I had a really bad travel experience getting home and I'm not sure how much that has tinged my perception.  I did not like Fresno.  It was greener than I thought it was going to be, but no great restaurants (we at at a P.F. Chang's), no great sites...  maybe, if I go back under better conditions, I will like it more....