Sunday, June 27, 2010

Foreign & Domestic, Food & Drink ☆☆☆

306 E. 53rd St
Austin, TX 78751
512 459-1010

Foreign & Domestic opened this summer offering homey yet refined cuisine in a relaxed, hipster-ish vibe.  The restaurant is located north of campus in the middle of a sedate neighborhood.  The brain child of culinary heavyweights husband and wife, Ned and Jodi Elliot, this spot holds much promise. Thus far it seems to be hitting some of the right notes, however, there are some inconsistencies.  I'm interested to see how it evolves... until then, it just gets three stars.

The space is in a renovated garage and is pretty small.  There are probably 20 tables in the place.  It has a very utilitarian feel, but it is light and airy due to the many windows.  There is a counter, and counter seating, in the back behind which all of the cooking action happens.  It's not often that you are so up close and personal with the people actually preparing your food - it seems like a brave move.   They don't take reservations, so be prepared to wait if you get there after 7:30 at night.  They have a little seating area to the side with lime green chairs.  You can sip on a beverage while you wait for your table.

The drink menu is very brief.   There are about 3 red and 3 white wines by the glass, a lonely rose and 1 or 2 sparkling options.  They are all very price conscious and are good examples of some more funky regions - the finger lakes, for example.  I had a nice Gruner Veltliner last time I was there and another diner sampled the rose.  There are about as many beer options, though noticeably no options from Austin, or even Texas.  They also offer one or two mixed drinks which come with the expected unexpected mixers - sparkling wine with rhubarb and black pepper was well designed. 

The food menu is not huge - it is divided into Snacks & Nibbles & Chomps and Plates.  I've had a chance to sample quite a few of both.  Some are very well put together, others the preparation and flavor combinations seem a bit off, or too heavy.  I enjoyed the Green Gazpacho a lot; it had a nice piquant flavor.  Stephen, however, ordered the beef tongue and was quite disappointed.  It was cooked to death and the accompaniments - watercress, horseradish and yogurt - did not seem to set it off well.  Their salads are very nice, I've had both a butter lettuce combination and a grilled peach and artichoke combination.  They are light, toothsome affairs.  I also really like their popovers, but I'm a bit of a popover nut.  The plates seem to be a bit more well thought out.  We really like the Ripper - bacon wrapped sausage with fried pickles, toast and other fixings - but it is not diet food at all.  I also like their vegetarian option - it didn't feel like an afterthought.  Finally, the desserts continue the homey vibe but there are only 4 of them.  They are large, with interesting ingredients and nice texture contrasts.  I really enjoyed the Coconut Sundae.  

Overall though, the presentation seems a bit uneven.  Some things are great, some poor and some seem just a bit confused.  I think it will even out as the restaurant comes into itself.  Looking forward to eating there as it does!  ☆☆☆

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