Sunday, June 27, 2010

Wines of the South of France - Cheat Sheet

Lessons Learned or the Top Things to Know about the Wines of the South of France (to sound like a wine geek!)


The South of France contains three main regions - Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon.  These regions cover a very diverse collection of geography, climates and varietals but also cultures and even languages.  Until railroads connected the south with the rest of France in the late 1800’s, these beautiful regions were somewhat isolated and distinct.  Now, of course, everyone is familiar with a lovely rosé from Provence or a good table wine from Pays d’Oc.  These regions offer lots of hidden gems as well...  

Languedoc

The Languedoc encompasses a region directly in the middle of the south of France on the Mediterranean.  The people there actually used to speak a separate language Occitan and there is still a distinct cultural difference. The vignerons tend to despise the AC system and even appear anarchist.  This is a bit of a wild countryside.  

The region has the highest volume of production in France, but not necessarily the highest quality.  It does have a lot of good value wines in the form of Vin de Table and vin de pays d’oc.  There has been a concerted effort to improve the quality of the wines produced through vine-pulling schemes to reduce the volume. 

This is an extremely old region; it has been producing wine since at least roman times around Narbonne.  The 17th century saw an expansion with the Dutch wine trade.  However, the region was eclipsed by other areas due to transportation issues that weren’t resolved until the rail system in the late 1800’s.  Now there has been an influx into this “hinterland” by the wealthy to set up lifestyle wineries.  

This is a coastal region with a Mediterranean climate.  Drought is the biggest problem, followed by the wind known as the Tramontane.  Most of the land is flat and alluvial though there are some foothills.  The soil consists of gravel and limestone.  Vineyards are often planted on counteract heat issues.  A problem is handling ripeness.  Tend to pick early because afraid of over-ripening.

Mostly red wine is produced, though there is some white.  Also produce sweet wine from the muscat grape.  Carignan is the dominant variety but it is considered the bane of European wine making (though some old vines are nice).  It is high in everything - acidity, tannins, color, bitterness, but no finesse.  As a result it is being planted less and less.  Grenache is the second most planted followed by Cinsault (great for rosé), Syrah , Mourvedre and other tiny varieties, such as Picpoul.   Generally produce dense, exciting, supple wines that are an example of the wild countryside.

The Languedoc contains many sub-regions; below a few of note: 

Corbieres produces dense, red, herby wines with spice and some rosé.  It is located in the Pyrenean foothills in rugged mountainous terrain.  Carignan is the dominant variety.   

Minervois produces reds that are generally more supple than Corbieres.  This is the land of the Cathars!  The wines are less single varietal and more blends with Syrah and Grenache having to be 20%.  White minervois is increasingly aromatic and sophisticated.  Red wines undergo carbonic maceration a red wine-making process which transforms a small amount of sugar in grapes which are uncrushed into ethanol, without the intervention of yeasts.  Used to produce light-bodied, brightly colored, fruity reds for early consumption (lose harsh malic acid).  

Coteaux de Languedoc is the catchall for a varied and extensive region!  It has tons of sub-appellations, including Picpoul de Pinet.  

Roussillon

Although Roussillon is often only seen as the second half of a hyphen Languedoc-Roussillon), it is quite distinct geographically and culturally.  The people are of Catalan origin, rather than French or Occitan.  This is an extremely mountainous region and it has the sunniest climate in France, with not much rain.  Early on Muscat was the varietal of choice, but the region has expanded into other varietals.  This used to be the center for wines in the middle ages - they produced sweet wines for the tastes of the time.  When sweet wine fell out of vogue the region needed to re-orient itself.  Now you can find lots of dense reds that epitomize the mountainous, rugged terrain.  

The Roussillon contains many sub-regions; below a few of note:   

Banyuls is a very famous dessert wine region located right on the border of Spain and  France.  There is no Muscat in Banyuls!  This is a red wine blend with Grenache Noir dominating.  

Cotes du Roussillon is the catchall for another varied and extensive region.   Grenache is the varietal of choice and the wines often have some carbonic maceration.  

Provence

Provence is known for its gorgeous vistas along the Mediterranean coast and today it is quite a tourism mecca.  Indeed, various peoples have been fighting over this region for millennia.  The city of Marseille has existed in some form since 600 B.C. when it was a Greek colony.  Wine production probably began during Roman times.  Much like Languedoc-Roussillon, this region was somewhat isolated from the rest of France until the 1800s, when the railroads were built.

Provence has a coastal climate very much dominated by the Mediterranean.  It receives many days of sun with not much rain.  Even though this is a warm area, it gets chilly in the winter, which is good for the grapes.  The main threat is drought, followed by the wind, the Mistral.  It is a rocky region with the sub alpine hills reaching to the sea.  

Provence has a rich range of vine varieties, perhaps due to large number of occupiers over the centuries.  Indeed, 13 varieties are allowed in Cotes de Provence - Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, Mourvedre. etc.  Grenache is the most planted varietal. 80% of the wine produced is pale, herby rosé.  These wines seem to have a special affinity for garlic and oil based cuisine.    

Provence contains many sub-regions; below a few of note: 

Bandol is a small sub-region on the coast.  The wines of Bandol are dominated by Mourvedre.  The rosés are deep-flavoured and lush. The region is also highly regarded for its res which have aromas of tree bark, leather and currants.  

Cassis is another small, mainly white wine producing region on the coast.  The wines are dry, fleshy, spicy and herby.  The wines are made from the rare Ugni Blanc, Cliarette and Bourboulenc grapes and are perfect with seafood.  

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